Honeywell Zone Valve Replacement

Hello to all
Can I replace just this zone valve head without draining the boiler? Like on the more modern ones.
Comments
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you can replace the motor and or end switch, but you cannot remove the galvanized plate, the whole top end, without isolating or draining the system
Is it the motor, switch, or stripped sector gear, that is bad?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Thanks for responding.
Its the gear. The lever is no longer connected to the gears. It gets flow but is not bringing on the boiler/not making the end switch. Is that reparable without draining?
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I believe this converts the old style valve to the new style powerhead:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Home-40003918-006-2-Way-Powerhead-Conversion-Kit-Water
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I think the gear and kecmver are crimped tigether. If you could find a valve if the same vintage the top end can all be rebuilt without getting into the water
Although the ball inside could be damaged or stuck and that damaged the gear/ lever
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
I usually just drain the boiler and rebuild the zone valve with a new motor and ball assembly from a new zone valve. The parts from a new HW zone valve will screw right on to the older valve body. For some reason the new zone valves don't last anywhere near as long as these old ones.
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After removing the power head, make sure the ball assembly behind the plate moves freely. If you can't move the protruding stem back & forth easily with your thumb & forefinger you'll need to replace the plate & ball assembly.
Often, the stiff ball assembly ( actuator ? ) is the cause of the stripped gear and failure of the end switch
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Got it. Thanks for all the responses !
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