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What can be better?

1930's 2 story (1400 sq ft) home with 7 radiators. Home was "remodeled" ~5 years ago and the steam boiler (gas) was replaced with the current unit. At this time, I think most of the normal radiators were replaced with smaller slimline units like in the picture. The main bedroom has a normal radiator which I installed a TRV on because the room gets unbearably hot. All radiator valves have been replaced and have the most open (least restrictive) valve inserts.

System was originally set to 6 pounds on the pressuretroll but it would just run forever and waste fuel. Now it starts, builds steam and then runs for a minute and shuts off over and over again until the thermostat hits temp. Takes like 90 mins to raise the temp 1 degree. All rads are hot.

The only steam main is running down the middle of the house, and its vent is on its wet return at the boiler. None of the risers have vents besides what is connected to the rads.

I have flushed the system myself and installed insulation on the main in an attempt to make the system work better. Wondering what else can be done besides replacing the slimline radiators with normal ones.

When the system starts the first part of the system to get hot is the wet return. The main vent hisses so I assume its still functional.

Mad Dog_2

Comments

  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,651

    It would behoove you to get a proven Steam Pro in there to set things flying in the right direction. Mad Dog

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,934

    Maybe you need more radiation since it was replaced you may not have enough.

    I would start with a room x room heat loss to get the btu load. Then measure all your rads and calculate the EDR which will give you their BTU output to compare to the heat loss.

    That's the place to start

  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,182

    How about separating the dry returns and dropping below the water line, each dry return needs a main vent . As others have stated you need a room by room heat lose . Personally anyone that suggested removing the standing rads to put in cast iron baseboard was not a person w much steam experience being most real steam guys would have to pass on removing standing rads to install cast iron baseboard being the result heating wise are never as promised nor close to a free standing rad . I would put recessed rads right up w cast iron baseboard . Not to be mean and there's really nothing wrong w a new yorker but that boiler is not a main stay of steam guys and usually installed by contractors who are pinching a penny and not the most savvy steam wise as seeing 2 dry return tied together above the water line is a clear indicator that they where clueless when it comes to minor issue that a newbie should spot within a few minutes of looking at a steam systems piping . Either that or the job was done cheap which would be a true being they used one of the cheapest boiler available ,real steam guy don't do things on the cheap being there really aint many do much of anything correct these days so you usually have to pay to get someone who has a clue .Don't feel bad like you were taken because it happen all the time good sales tech and zero interest financing always trump some dude who aint all fancy w dirty hands and a beat up vehicle and is not a choir boy maybe one of the bowery boys or a past juvenile delinquent at a mim . Never judge a book by its cover being the ugly cover is most likely the most truthful one especially since most real steam guys dont lie and tell it like it is which most real customer's don't want to hear even the details so they trust the nice clean guys and we all know how that goes its all worry free lol . That's a north jersey inside joke some will understand all bout worry free until ya gotta worry and then it will b e that guy w the crappy truck or van then ya can start worrying $

    peace and good luck clammy

    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating

    Mad Dog_2