1207 logamatic burner won’t start

jasontagg

installed new boiler controller 1207 logamatic old was bad ,,,, with new 1207 and the burner won’t fire off ( I did cut the two wires going to the crome well and spliced them on the new 1207 think the two round dials on left side ) when turn on 1207 the circulators come on have two zones and third zone is the indirect buderas ) but the burner won’t fire off ,, I don’t have power to pin 4 and 11 as per trouble shoot flow chart ,, but on the flow chart it did say something about the the capillary tube wire isn’t linked or cut . Would this cause a no start on the burner ,, support was closed today newyears !!

HVACNUT

What if you switch from Auto to Manual ✋️mode. IDK what you cut and spliced. Crome well?

jasontagg

manual mode switch on still won’t fire the burner and I have no 120v to the 4-12 pins on the green block

Big Ed_4

You want to replace the well , they have issue with leakage when they get old that will damage the sensors. I believe the wire you cut is the manual reset high limit …

GW

i’m not there so my general hunch is you cut the capillary lines, is that wire or capillary tube that you spliced? You should have yanked the entire cluster out and installed the new cluster into the well.

If you did cut the capillaries you’re gonna need to wiggle the limit control out of your old 2107 and get it connected.

Do you have power on 10 or 12?

109A_5

Hello jasontagg,

What was wrong with the old 1207 that is not wrong with the new 1207 ?

If you ignore the inspection of the capillary tube inspection and continue on with the troubleshooting flow chart where does it lead you ? Is the flame icon displayed on the LCD display ?

Picture of the LCD display ?

109A_5

Power on terminal 12 ?

GW

I bet 5 bucks there isn’t juice on 12

jasontagg

no power on 12 or 11 yes I cut both lines that go into the well they looked like solid copper like are they hollow !!! That might be the flow chart cause ? Can someone explain please if so

jasontagg

When I do this the burner still doesn’t come on also

109A_5

Did you finish the process ?

109A_5

Looking at this drawing you may have cut two capillary tubes going to two separate bulbs in a well in the boiler (there may have been a reason there was no electrical connectors).

I was hoping what you called two wires were actually wires for a single temperature sensor, but now I'm not so hopeful. If they are actually wires, they probably would be two wires in each cable, and may be repairable. I would inspect what you cut very carefully.

You may need to replace items 35 and 36, minimum. Or the whole 2107 (if items 35 and 36 can not be obtained) and install it correctly.

jasontagg

109a yes I cut those two capillary tube wires ,, if they don’t have parts ( dought ) and new 1207 is $1200 , and the boiler is under my burner buderas that I think you can’t use an outside Aquastat ,, seems I’m stuck with new htp 45 gallon , new aquastat , tekmar 260 ?

109A_5

I would refer to your boiler's manual, you may be able to use a different aquastat if that is the route you choose. However that may be a whole different adventure requiring more work and down time and you may loose any unique benefits the 2107 provides.

HVACNUT

You dont need a third party control (Tekmar) for outdoor reset. Honeywell, Hydrostat, Beckett, all offer ODR with their aquastats. Gotta change the well, though. I know the Hydrostat offers remote mounting for easy access since your system is stacked. I like the 2107, but like our brains, only about 10% of it's capabilities are actually put to use.