EK System 2000 hot water tank
Comments
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Hi Guys,
jumping onto this thread & hopefully can get an answer.
so we installed a EK System 2000 in 2008 & overall it has been great. Had to have the water tank replaced under warranty as it was leaking in 2012 & now it’s leaking badly again from the base.
Our installer has maintained it faithfully every year but never replaced the anode or back flushed/cleaned the water side.
As an Aerospace Engineer I really like good quality simple systems so looking to replace this very poor quality tank with a stainless or “plastic” tank.
Does anyone have an opinion about the Rheem Marathon range or another good quality robust tank & if so what are the downfalls of doing so.? I understand the centre pipe is shorter in the EK tank for instance.
Thanks Guvnor.0 -
The above comment needs to be moved to a new discussion @HeatingHelp.com
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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@guvnor the quality of the tank is not the problem. The quality of the service you are receiving on the tank is. Checking the anode rod condition takes me less than 5 minutes. I service a lot of EK systems and I replace the anode rods all the time.
Also the quality of your water may be a problem. It might not be a bad idea to have it checked.
A powered anode replacement for the sacrificial anode rod would be a good idea.
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@guvnor , thank you for your post. With your engineering background, I’m sure that you know that the root cause of a failure is important to understand in order to get better results going forward. The longevity of the tank is almost always related to site specific conditions, and not the quality of the tank; we would never offer a poor quality tank.
If the anode rod is largely consumed, that means that the site specific conditions in your application corroded that sacrificial element and then attacked the tank. If the anode rod were changed, or replaced with electric anode rod, that would prevent the same failure going forward. If it failed for lack of dielectric isolation, then dielectrically isolating it would prevent the same failure going forward.
In some site specific conditions, we have seen stainless steel tanks fail in fewer years of operation than glass lined tanks (and vice versa).
We would have to complete an engineering analysis on the Marathon tank to see if it could be properly converted to work with thermal purge. This has to do with our unique dip tube design, how it could be installed, and the thermostat location among other design criteria.
If you’d like for us to be more involved, please ask your heating professional to contact us and reference this thread.Thank you,
Roger
President
Energy Kinetics, Inc.1 -
Thank you for your reply, @SuperTech - we were responding at the same time, and I have to say yours was much more concise!
Best,
Roger
President
Energy Kinetics, Inc.2 -
Thanks for the replies it’s most appreciated.
I have well water which is tested for biological nasties but not PH or minerals.Rather disappointed that the “reputable” maintenance company has never checked/replaced the anode. They are very specific with cards left attached to the system what’s been done.
Obviously with my background & now with EV conversions I’m somewhat particular with good maintenance and design practices, however definitely not obsessive.
Therefore would like to follow up with EK directly.
Again thanks.
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We just had our EK1 "serviced" which we have done mostly annually, sometimes every other year (installed 2009). Here's the report:
checked ignitor and cleaned air band and burner. System is operating properly at this time.
That will be $$$ please.
This is an EK dealer and I assume they have had training. No mention of anything checked on the storage tank.
See below for a 30 sec video of the base of our tank. The floor is moist, but not wet. The bottom edge of the tank is also moist but not wet, but this seems like trouble brewing.
Is there a manufacturer/factory standard for what items need to be checked annually/periodically? Prior year (2023) maintenance report (still no mention of the storage tank):
- Cleaned electrode and flame sensor ( flame sensor connector a little Loose )
- Cleaned intake
- Took reading on amp on blower And pump ( All Below max amp )
- Took reading on whole system amp below max rating
- Check contact for pitting check thermal camera on pump
- One circulator pump was really hot ( taco )
- Check nominal voltage on low side and high
- Check zone valves
- Unit is running
- 165 water temp
- 15 psi on water pressure
Going back further in our records, I see the following:
- remove and clean flame sensor/spark-rod
- tune burner to manufacturer spec 6.5% O2 with digital combustion analyzer (86% efficiency)
- check flue exhaust temp
- check safety and controls
Can anyone comment? Seems like there are many more things which could/should be checked and/or adjusted unless the System 2000 "just works."
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