Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

1 1/2 thermostatic radiator valve

Grallert
Grallert Member Posts: 805
edited December 20 in Strictly Steam

I'm not finding what would make my life much easier. I need an 1 1/2 thermostatic radiator valve. Macon only goes up to 1 1/4. It appears Danfoss only goes to 1 1/4 as well.

The trouble is, this riser (1 1/2) passes through a masonry floor of about 28". It's probably not going to move and up or down.

Let me start over. I have to remove a 1 1/2 Johnson control sylphon pneumatic valve that has a failed seat. It's serving a giant radiator. So the small room is over heating. Out of control. Modern valves end up about 1/2 to 3/4 too low. I have to add a coupling and raise to radiator and I either have to reduce to 1 1/4 which I'd rather not do or find an 1 1/2 thermostatic valve. Though I don't suppose a smaller valve will have too much of effect. Does any of this make sense?

I should mention that this is a large low pressure two pipe steam system so I will also have to adjust the return to fit what ever I end up with. That's not an issue.

Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

Comments

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,466
    edited December 20

    Steam or hot water?

    If radiator is overheating on hot water i would not worry about reducing to 1-1/4" to add the TRV.

    EDIT: But I see now this is steam but reducing seems like the only reasonable option.

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805
    edited December 20

    Low pressure, two pipe, steam. Thought I mentioned that but I didn't. Editing now. Thanks for the heads up.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

    PC7060
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 908
    dennis53
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    Thanks @ScottSecor. Just too big and bulky for this application But thatnk you for taking the time to look. I'll keep digging. I have a couple more weeks before school ranps back up. As it stands I have a manual steam valve on the riser not connected to the radiator so I can run the boiler. The space is unoccupied for a week or so.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 298

    Have you checked with castrads.com? They may a product. @Nick_Castrads

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    I have not. But that's a good suggestion I hadn't thought of. Thank you.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 461

    . So the small room is over heating. Out of control. Modern valves end up about 1/2 to 3/4 too low. I have to add a coupling and raise to radiator and I either have to reduce to 1 1/4 which I'd rather not do

    If the room is overheating terribly now…………..a 1.25 would help that situation by allowing a lower quantity of steam through the valve. Since it is modulating continually, why the concern about a smaller valve? Hell, a 1" would probably work. You don't care if the radiator won't fill completely. You don't need it.

    PC7060delcrossv
  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 298

    the risk of using too small a valve for a radiator is that it will choke on condensate and making sloshing noises as steam fights to slip past returning condensate

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,466

    2 pipe so shouldn’t affect condensation drainage

    WaherGrallert
  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,466

    I thought TRV were installed on the vents for steam radiators. Can you install on the inputs similar to hot water?

  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 298

    On two pipe steam yes.

    On one pipe steam, only if the radiator or TRV is equipped with a vacuum breaker.

    PC7060Grallert
  • Nick_Castrads
    Nick_Castrads Member Posts: 84

    @Waher thanks for the mention but we don't have anything that big.

    Could this be a good situation for an orifice plate to reduce the inbound steam?

    PC7060GrallertJUGHNELong Beach Ed
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,026

    Could you put a reducing ell on the riser and put a straight valve in the horizontal possibly with an offset to align it to the radiator, slide the radiator around to make it line up then rework the return to the new radiator position?

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    The issue is the riser is 1 1/2 and its cased in concrete and other masonry. Difficult to remove and too low to for an easy swap out of the valve any valve I'll need to either cut and thread it or raise the radiator. I'm waiting on an 1 1/2 malexfemale coupling. and I'll raise the radiator. I think

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    @mattmia2 Because the supply and return are pretty perminent in the floor there's not much room to work with. I'm looking for a 1 1/2F x 1 1/4 M coupling. supply house doesn't have them. Not even sure they're made.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    @Waher This is a two pipe system. all the rads have pneumatically actuated valves on the supplies. My guess is that because of this system operated at a crazy high pressure the seats are damaged and no longer seat fully.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    I'd love to install a 1 1/4 thermostatic valve but the riser is permanent in the floor and it's 1/1/2. I can't find a 11/2F x 11/4M coupling. I would just raise up the rad to make up for the increased highth of the raiser. As it stands noe it's 11/2F x 11/2M coupling. still need to raise the rad and use a 11/2 conventional steam valve

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • Waher
    Waher Member Posts: 298

    Why not use a female reducing coupling

    https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/search.php?search_query=1-1%2F2+x+1-1%2F4+in.+NPT+Threaded+-+Reducing+Coupling&section=content

    With a close threaded nipple screwed in to create a male end?

    LRCCBJGrallert
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,292

    I had this problem with a monster CI rad in a class room.

    I put an orifice in the supply valve union for about only 50% fill of the rad.

    Start with small opening, you can enlarge if needed.

    KISS method.

    Grallert
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    Thanks everyone for the input. I'll come up with a working solution that will look good and function and hopefully with out too much gymnastics.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 805

    I like this idea. I've never done this is there a description I can find in how?

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,026

    look in the anvil catalog to see if they make it then look for someone that has it. grainger has a lot of the oddball fittings.

    Grallertdelcrossv
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,437
    edited 2:52AM

    Here you go @Grallert

    https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/pipe-fittings-steel-female-steel-expanding-pipe-adapters-1-1-4-in-male-x-1-1-2-in/

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.