Plumbing 101 question

seized123

I have a small leak at the old copper to NPT adaptor in the picture, it's leaking on the sweat end at the small nipple between it and the tee. It's possible the actual leak is where the nipple meets the tee above it, and not at the lower side of it, or it could be both.

I think I caused it when I tried to remove the adaptor by unsoldering it (unsoldering is my absolutely unfavorite plumbing activity so far). I heated it up as much as I dared (a lot) and it wouldn't budge, so I left it. The leak is very small, I just see a bit of moisture there now and then, but that's the supply side of the boiler so it's hot and maybe evaporates water and masks the extent of the leak.

As you can see the problem is the darned nipple is so small, otherwise I could cut it and resolder a new fitting on. I think I tried to unsolder the adaptor from the nipple, not the nipple from the tee, but if I tried the latter I assume I'd have the same problem and the nipple might not come out of the tee, and I really don't want to start having to unsolder the tee, as I figure I’d probably run into the same problem.

It's naturally tempting (after shutting off the valves and draining the boiler some) to just slab some flux and then solder all over it and hope it gets drawn down and solves the problem, but I've been indoctrinated that that's not a fix, and that the only real thing to do is remove and use a new fitting.

I guess I could try to cut the nipple flush to the adaptor and slip on a new adaptor on the little that remains of the nipple, if it will go, although that would make the adaptor flush up to the tee with almost no gap, and also that wouldn't solve the problem if it's leaking between tee and nipple.

Also, I would like to tackle this after warmer weather comes, meaning spring, but I've heard that leaks introduce oxygen and cause corrosion, and I really want my new boiler to be off to a good start. (In other words, I'm hoping someone will tell me not to worry, no real harm would be done waiting until spring.) It's definitely not gushing water, I often feel no moisture there at all, but like I said evaporation might be masking things.

Big Ed_4

Let it go for now, repipe that section in the spring ….

EBEBRATT-Ed

Wait till spring no harm done. Just keep your eye on it.

It is tough for anyone, even a professional to make repairs on fittings that are close coupled together.

There are some tricks like heat block and wet rags that can help you to unsolder stuff you want to keep but it can be difficult for anyone

seized123

Thanks @Big Ed_4 and @EBEBRATT-Ed, was hoping you’d say that.

In the spring I can combine that with installing a microbubble air separator right there as suggested by @SuperTech on another thread, probably using a configuration suggested by @hot_rod : taking out the pump (see photo) and putting iron ells at the supply nipple and above that on the copper adaptor and making a loop of 1-1/4 either jutting out to the right or parallel to the boiler’s right side, on which would be the pump and separator. I thought I read somewhere that dirt magnet separators are ideally placed on the return, but if that’s not true I could put in a combo air/dirt, if it’ll fit.

Out of curiosity, those air separators claim to remove almost all the oxygen. Now if I had a similar small leak somewhere hidden, would that separator mitigate any oxygen that got sucked in, or the oxygen that would come in with replenishing fresh water? I want to do all I can to prevent corrosion. Plus our water is aggressive.

hot_rod

thinking about air, the stuff we breath is mostly nitrogen 78%, 21.% oxygen

The air that doesn’t get purged out, that O2 enables some rusting of ferrous metals until it is consumed. Now you have dead, oxygen starved water. Corrosion stops unless oxygen migrates in

Mother Nature hates imbalances of any type, temperature, pressure, humidity, etc

Experts claim O2 gets in around valve packing , crimps, threads, non barrier tube, 3 piece pump seals??

So I like to keep a hydronic conditioner that contains oxygen scavengers. Check it every so many years? Boost as needed

seized123

Okay, @hot_rod I want that stuff. Any brand names? Also, how do I get it in? (The system’s hydronic not steam.) Assuming it’s something you pour, do I depressurize and pour it in somewhere, like remove the relief valve or air valve and pour in there?

If you tell me everything I can do to make the water good I will do it. If it makes a difference we have very high tds.

hot rod here’s a quote from you I came across in an old thread. I don’t know what system that was, but is this something I could/should do?: “I would suggest a fill tank instead connection to potable water. This allows you to monitor for leaks, and also allow you to boost the inhibitors every few years. This also eliminates the problematic back flow preventer.”

Could I/should I put in a fill tank, whatever that is?

In addition to treatment, an air separator would still be beneficial, right?

hot_rod

You can get these kits from Rhomar or Fernox to attach to a hose connection and squirt in the cleaner , then conditioner.
After you flush the cleaner refill with one iof these Axiom deionizers. It is a single use cartridge Lastly squirt in the second can of conditioner

make your piping corrections, pressure test before you add either chemical

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https://axiomind.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/PuroPal-1-Sales-Sheet-2022.pdf

109A_5

Hello seized123,

Looks suspicious here. Unless it gets worse I'd wait until spring.

When the time comes I'd remove the circulator and the black pipe. No dripping water from the system above, stuffing bread in is one trick if you can't wait until the dripping stops. Wet rags on the joints you don't want to come apart. Get the Copper to NPT adapter good and hot and and then twist it off with a pair of slip joints on the Hex.

mattmia2

if you clean the fitting with emery cloth or scotchbrite it will become obvious where the leak is. the oxygen and minerals come with the fresh water so a tiny leak like that won't be an issue for a season although i'd make sure you don't have leaks elsewhere that took out the old boiler. if you turn off the makeup water with a leak that size it should still hold pressure for months.

it can be hard to heat all of a fitting that size with the types of torches homeowners typically have. if you figure out it is the adapter, i would wrap the tee in a wet rag so it doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder. i would cut the adapter with a hacksaw or file or grinder or some combination of all 3 until you make slits on opposite sides down to the solder then i would heat one side at a time and pull the fitting off. wipe the extra solder off the pipe with a rag or a wire brush. might still need to file it to get the new fitting on. clean and flux both sides before you sweat the new fitting on.

Intplm.

Wait till spring to fix it. By then this very minor micro leak will probably have healed itself.