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Alternatives for Condensate Return Motor

redplumber
redplumber Member Posts: 12
edited December 2024 in Strictly Steam

I have a Hoffman Watchman Condensate Unit Model WCS-8-20.

Due to flooding in the area, the motor was submerged under water and now runs very noisy. I am looking at new Hoffman DM0005 (Marathon Motors 1/3HP 3450 RPM single phase), but it seems to be going for about $1,000.

Are there any alternatives to the OEM motor? Are there suitable replacements that are compatible while being available at a lower price point? Do you guys even bother with sourcing a compatible replacement or just rely on the manufacturers OEM replacement?

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,848

    Why not just take it to a good motor repair shop?

    delcrossvredplumber
  • Pumpguy
    Pumpguy Member Posts: 706

    What is the pump's Brand name, and motor's frame number?

    Most commonly these pumps use 56J frame motors although occasionally you'll see OEM spec motors like 46Y or similar. If its not a 56J, you may be stuck with with the OEM offers.

    If your pump uses a 56J frame motor, these are widely available from many online sources like Supply House.com and various swimming pool suppliers.

    These are frequently referred to as swimming pool pump motors.

    In addition to the motor, you will definitely need a seal and gasket kit too.

    Most common problem with these motors is bad motor bearings. If true, nowadays most of these motors use 203 series bearings which is the most common ball bearing in the world. To remove the bearings you will need a screw and jaw puller. To install, use a piece of 1/2" black pipe and a hammer.

    I use 6203 RS bearings which a are sealed type. These are used in riding lawn mower blade housings, snowmobile track rollers and many other applications. I've seen these priced anywhere from 6 to 27 dollars each, depending on where you buy them.

    A less common motor problem is the internal centrifugal starting switch (single phase motors only). These are more difficult to deal with, so I would bite the bullet and get a whole new motor.

    Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
    Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com

    The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
    redplumberPC7060
  • Pumpguy
    Pumpguy Member Posts: 706

    I just did some searching, and your Hoffman WCS 820 shows using a 56J frame motor, so all that I posted above about repair or replacement of your motor should apply.

    Good luck with this repair.

    Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
    Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com

    The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
    PC7060
  • redplumber
    redplumber Member Posts: 12
    edited December 2024

    @EBEBRATT-Ed Taking it to a repair shop would've been the sensible thing to do during the warm weather. But now that it's heating season, I'm stuck with the pump in service. But I'll definitely do it once I have a decent replacement.

    @Pumpguy Wow, thank you! That pointed me in a great direction. I'll probably buy an old motor to have a backup and work on replacing the bearings once it's swapped out. I attached a photo of the label. I have some followup questions:

    • The shaft from the condensate pump has a threaded portion. How do I know if the replacement has the proper thread size? Or is this something standard?
    • Do the amp ratings need to match up when replacing the motor? Those seem to vary a bit when finding something that looks similar.
    • Would this be a proper replacement: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Century-T1032-1-3-HP-115-230v-Jet-Pump-Motor-1-PH-3450-RPM-56J-Frame-ODP

  • Pumpguy
    Pumpguy Member Posts: 706

    56CZ frame indicates there's something OEM spec special about this motor, almost certainly the shaft. Maybe a different thread on the shaft, or a nut and key arrangement; who knows. Many pump OEMs like to use their own spec motor, and these are all, at least that I've seen, labeled 56CZ frame.

    For this reason, I tend to avoid pumps with special frame motors like this whenever I can.

    For your reference, I have attached basic 56J frame motor dimensions. Maybe yours is close enough that a standard 56J motor will work.

    Many other pump manufacturers use 56J frame motors and their suction flange mounting stud dimensions are 2.75 X 5" which are a direct bolt on mount on your tank. These include SHIPCO, MEPCO / DUNHAM BUSH, RUSSELL, and the Xylem products Hoffman and Domestic.

    Unfortunately these have become very expensive lately, and can have very long lead times.

    If you really need this problem resolved quickly, I would do a search for PUMP REPAIRS in your area and see what they can do for you.

    Back in my Nash service technician days, it was SOP for us to go to a job site and change a seal and bearings and get the pump back on line in a matter of hours.

    Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
    Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com

    The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
    redplumber
  • Pumpguy
    Pumpguy Member Posts: 706

    To answer your question, 56J and 56CZ frame motors are not interchangable.

    Attached is the factory spec leaflet on your unit. Having a 56CZ frame motor, I expect yours is the after 2003 series.

    Unfortunately, the cross section detail on how the impeller mounts on the shaft isn't very clear. It appears to be a design where the motor's pump side end shield and the pump's seal carrier head are the same casting.

    Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
    Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com

    The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
    redplumber
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,848

    If I remember "J" means threaded shaft.

    A good motor shop could turn that around pretty fast if you ask nice.

    There was one in Hartford, Ct that would throw bearings in one while you wait!!

    redplumber
  • redplumber
    redplumber Member Posts: 12

    Dear Pump Experts,

    So I have the old pump apart and it looks like it's in rough shape. There is a lot of rust on the rotor. Does this look rebuildable? I have a bearing puller and new bearings that @Pumpguy suggested, so I'm ready to replace the bearings. But I want to make sure I clean it up properly.

    For anyone interested, I included some details about what I got and resources below the photos.

    I purchased a new (old stock) pump for a fraction of the cost from a supplier. I replaced my pump with the new one and it works like new.

    I used this video to guide me and to help me see what to expect, and it was pretty helpful:

    https://youtu.be/yCL_VKYbOvY?si=zWoZhnmpYsNHJig3

    I then used this video to disassemble my old pump:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fM3_XXlfc4

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,145

    the armature looks fine. iron will rust like that if it is someplace damp, it only is a problem if it starts bridging some of the clearances in the motor

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 1,909

    You said that motor was under water ? Maybe just the pump end was under water. Looks in pretty good shape to me. Clean up the little bit of corrosion, replace the bearings, and you should have a good spare.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,848

    Agree with the above posts looks pretty good. Just clean it as good as you can.

  • Pumpguy
    Pumpguy Member Posts: 706

    I concur as well.

    Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
    Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com

    The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.