Adding water manually to Weil McLain Gold hydronic baseboard system
Hey everyone
I have a 3 zone hydronic baseboard heat system powered by a Weil McLain Gold. I noticed the heat wasn't heating up the house as quick and the low water light came on. There is no automatic fill valve on this system and there isn't any leaks. Could someone point out how to manually add water to this system? I will attach pictures of the system. Thank you
Comments
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there is a ball valve with a hose connection at the expansion tank for filling, use a wash machine hose to adapt to a regular garden hose.
If the system has glycol you cannot add water!
The green fuzz around the air vent is sometimes caused by glycol squirting out the vent. And the drum to the left may be glycol?
Put a cup under the boiler drain valve to get a sample. Glycol is sweet smelling, sweet tasting with a drop on the tongue, usually colored and slippery between your fingers
Generally there is a label somewhere indicating a glycol fill.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Thank you for your prompt response.
Yes, it is glycol.
I remember when I had it serviced when I bought the house a few years ago, the HVAC guy said the pressure was low because it was low on water and I distinctly remember him taking water taking only water and adding it to the system. Is adding plain water that bad? could this be a problem? wouldn't a problem of arrived by now from him adding plain water?
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Why does it have glycol? Are there pipes in outside walls, or other freeze prone locations?
Glycol is a fluid that takes some maintenance.
Two checks, if you really need it.
Check the ph, a test strip or stick ph meter. New it runs 10.5 or so. If it has dropped into the 8 or 7 range, you really should flush it and get new fluid. It can start pin holing copper tube, destroy some thin boiler heat exchanger metals.
The second test is freeze protection level. Those floating ball testers at the automotive stores will work. Or a more expensive refractometer.
Where are you located, how cold does it get?
35- 40% glycol should get you burst protection to -5°F? or colder? It varies from brand to brand.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I'm not sure why the system has glycol, I live in northern upstate NY outside of Syracuse. There are no pipes outside. The only thing perhaps would be because of an addition of a living room/bedroom/combo is on piers.
I turned the system off for about 10 minutes, turned it on and the low water light is gone and status light is green. Heat is currently working. Next step looks like to test the pH
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Is there a Tridicator gauge behind the front door? Does it work?
If it was once a summer residence, the glycol makes sense. If it's a permanent residence, not really a need. No hydro coil in the attic? Do you know how long the glycol has been there? It does break down.
If the glycol isn't needed, pipe in a Back Flow Preventer and Pressure Reducing Valve. There's plenty of room between the extrol and the scoop.
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You might want to support that expansion tank better, especially if you put in a back-flow preventer/fill valve assembly between the tank and the air eliminator. I'm not seeing evidence of a temperature/pressure relief valve.
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my next question would be, in your opinion, how much psi should a system like this have at cold temp and hot temp? 12-15psi?
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@SuperTech , don't start drinking that stuff. It is only a test to see if there is plain water or antifreeze. haven't you ever watched a chemist taste test chemicals like cyanide, If you want a sweet drink I'll get you some Gatorade. What flavor do you like?
But on a serious note, you should follow @hot_rod 's advice and test the pH of the boiler water (Fluid) . You can use a regular pool water test kit for that, and the auto parts store has the antifreeze tester. As far as adding water to antifreeze, there is no danger. You just want the antifreeze to be potent enough to keep pipes from freezing and the pH to be slightly alkaline
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Relief valve is behind the inducer assembly.
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Yes. Cold to 12 psi.
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Good eye HVACNUT. Of course, the TPRV is on the RETURN. Maybe it could be swapped for the "other boiler drain" that is on TOP of the boiler—a more conventional location for TPRV. Call me a "conventionalist."
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adding too much water lowers the freezing point, and ideally glycol should be used with DI water. Hard water consumes some of the glycol inhibitors
It you do flush, get a small DI unit from Axion or use pre mix glycol
Unless the home is left unattended for days in the winter, you may not need glycol
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
How many psi should hot run?
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So many variables, but max 20 psi at limit.
Is there heat on all zones? No purging needed?
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yes there is heat in all zones, psi gets to 16 when hot. is that low?
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No, that's fine.
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The op said the:
"The only thing perhaps would be because of an addition of a living room/bedroom/combo is on piers."
Could be that is what the glycol is for. Being on Piers it could be subject to freezing
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we have seen fin tube freeze inside the building when drafts can get to the piping
Glycol is your insurance policy, just keep an eye on the levels of protection
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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