Radiant heat setup with Cross Manifold, Hydro Smart panel

timberwolf78

Hello all

I have a new construction basement with 4-loop PEX already installed.

The Structure is highly insulated and heat load is very low.

After some research, I have purchased the following components to finish the setup and get the radiant heat up and running:

1. CROSS4 - Cross Manifold CROSS4 - 4 Loop Stainless Steel Manifold Package w/ Control (1/2" PEX)

2. HSPS120LT - One Zone Master Panel – Hydro-Smart

3. Hydro Shark SH-07 7kW Electric Boiler – Hydro-Smart

I would like to be able to control the temp of all 4 areas independently. Am I missing anything critical in this setup? Other thoughts?

Thanks in advance

EdTheHeaterMan

the thermostats. and don't forget to run the thermostat wires before you do the sheet rock walls.

there are several items that you may need like a back-flow preventer, automatic feed valve and of course the copper piping to build the system from the boiler to the HydroSmart kit and from the HydroSmart Kit to the manifold as illustrated here.

And you will always need to go to the local supply house for more fittings and other stuff when you are installing it. No one except @EzzyT and @clammy have everything they need on the first trip.

timberwolf78

I got this shutoff valve kit for the microboiler and have a question on it:

Webstone 3/4" Push-to-Connect Lead-Free Isolator EXP E2 Tankless Water Heater Service Valves at Menards®

It has a pressure relief valve outlet. However there is already a pressure relief valve in the https://www.hydro-smart.com/products/hsps120lt assembly.

My question is what should I do with the PRV outlet on the shutoff valve?

Would it be ok just capping it off?

hot_rod

Looks like you could isolate the heater from that panel via valves, so I would put a relief into the tee connection.

Although it needs to be a 30 lb relief. If that is a tankless relief it may be 150 psi? Which is intended to protect the tankless, but not the hydronic components.

GroundUp

You'd be best off to return all the HydroSmart junk as well as the flush valves and buy something that'll actually work with your system. That "boiler" is not a boiler at all- it's a rebadged Stiebel Eltron tankless water heater and it will not operate with only one loop running at a time nor is the panel compatible with a tankless water heater (per HydroSmart themselves). A proper modulating electric boiler such as an Electro EMB-M2-05-240-1 with the appropriate piping would cost you less both upfront and long term, as well as being the correct, code compliant tool for the job. I can help you with this if you'd like, and can even build a complete prefabricated plug-and-play system to take the guesswork out of the equation if interested. I've got nearly a thousand of them in service today all over North America, but would happily offer consultation services if you'd prefer to build it yourself.