Boiler baseboard heat help

karter

Getting hot on both sides of 3/4 copper pipe come off main 11/2 iron pipes in and out .but not getting very warm on baseboard.has 1 auto bleader that very corroded. Don't like it it goes in a 1/8 hole in end 90deg.where can I get a manual bleeder so I can bleed to get air out..part no. And place to order please.thanks looked in granger book no luck

karter

Also I reworked my pumpsvthis summer so I drain system clear out.i added shutoffs kn both sides of my 3 pumps to make service easier and added boiler drains above pump shutoffs . My house has a boiler in basement and copper pipes laying on ceiling in forming and covered with 3/4 plywood floor has 2 zones with a 3/8copper drop to basement with a shutoff on both for bleeding air . Also copper pipes in basement floor .3 zones 3 pumps. Rear of house getting warm front not as warm and the one room has a add on baseboard heater tats not as warm. I shutoff boiler and all return valves above pumps and bleed one at a time with a hose to a bucket for a long time .thought I had all air out.so how do I use the bleed copper drops to bleed air up in attic.

neilc

can you post a picture of the cold rad, both ends,

and of the boiler, circ(s), zonevalve(s), and where you purged from, wide view, and boiler pressure,

if rad is hot at both ends, can you also show how it connects to your main,

karter

Mess of pics.pic with copper shutoffs go to den baseboard other pic is back bedroom that getting hot with old thermostat.

karter

2 pics of where main pipes go up to atic from basement with the copper bleed drop.pipe. one set front of house one back of house

karter

Will a r19a relay work on a newer 2 wire round thermostat if I ever have to remove the old one its a 3 wire but could just use 2 wires.

neilc

let's see if I understand,

2 sets of risers to attic/2nd floor, which also have an air vent return to basement, and these are the cold units?

and you added the copper, off one of the cold risers, and that copper is working?

close off the copper valves to isolate that working loop, and then try and purge the attic risers again,

are you "purging" by the copper air vent drops, or at the boiler?

can you show how the copper air vent drops connect upstairs?

where the hose is connected at the boiler, that is not a purge point, it's too low, you would purge up at the circs, if , , ,

but I also doubt you'll be able to purge down those larger risers,

show how the copper air vent drops connect upstairs

GroundUp

I have read this, or attempted to, at least a dozen times and still have no idea what you're asking. If the radiation isn't getting warm, you most likely have an airlock and it needs to be purged. Not bled, but purged.

karter

No the 2 sets of iron pipes that go up to attic with a copper drop bleeder? They get hot the one set tat does not have the copper lines with shutoffs .the line with shutoffs hoes to baseboard these lines at pipe get hot on both sides but the room only gets to 72 deg from baseboard and upper copper lines in ceiling. Why. The other iron pipes go to back of house also have a copper bleed drop.they are hot and heating to good 90deg. The small. b&g pump works and gets hot.theres a cross over with a valve i have it half open whats this for.when I pressure bleed I isolated by shutting it to minimize bleeding air to other side. Back bed thermostat is turned down to 50deg but it's 90 deg in there ?back of house 90deg fron and den 72deg?

karter

Would ya change that old thermostat to the round honeywell I have and just use 2 of the 3 wires to the old r19a relay.

karter

So do I turn all valves above my pumps off and go up in attic and open valve on copper drop that's on cold area .and have my son watch hose for air.then shut off 5 gal at a time.dont want boiler to run out of pressure. With boiler off

neilc

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1824191#Comment_1824191

ok, so the copper lines to their radiator are hot at the steel pipe, but little heat at the rad, correct?

the water has no incentive to go into the 1/2 inch copper when it's so much easier to go up that 1 inch steel, are there any rad valves past the copper tees, at the rad, which could get throttled down, post a picture of what the steel risers feed, or you may need to add a small circ on that copper loop.

the crossover is an attempt at boler low temp protection, is that circ with the crossover the same zone as the cold copper loop?

then get control of the run away, high temperature zone(s)