It's freezing upstairs
Comments
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open orange slowly and watch the pressure gage,
close the orange at 12,
if gage doesn't move, tap on it, you need a working gage to set pressure,
do not leave orange open,
done yet?
known to beat dead horses0 -
That is because I am a smartie pants. Just trying to add a little levity.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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exclamation point,
(the price paid to be here sometimes , , , )
known to beat dead horses
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No more jokes.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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and that's your gas valve at the bottom, and the ignition control with all the wires,
open orange yet?
known to beat dead horses0 -
haha, the joke flag was up.
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and I didn't even get an LOL
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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No one is explaining anything about orange just saying to open which I'm pretty sure is dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and it literally says "water something" on it so I'm not just going to blindly open it. And the gage isn't the issue since the temp works on the gage
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The temperature could be reading correctly while the pressure and altitude are faulty.
The orange handle valve feeds water into the boiler, but not constantly. The pressure on the gauge should read 12 psi when water is cold. A little higher when hot.
Youre right to feel hesitant if you're not comfortable doing it.
There really should be a pressure reducing valve to regulate boiler pressure. Get some references and call an HVAC company and request a boiler tech. Probably about an hour labor to purge, but I would recommend a PRV, a Back Flow Preventer, and check/replace the air eliminators as well. Your boiler should be checked and tested annually. We call it "preventive maintenance".
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The orange-handled valve is what allows your city/town water to flow into the boiler system. City/town water is typically around 60 psi (pounds per square inch) of pressure. That's what you get when you open the water valve in your tub to fill the tub.
You need about 12 psi of pressure in your heating system for it to pump heat up to the second floor. At 0 psi now, you won't get heat to the second floor. So you need to increase the water pressure in the system by opening the orange-handled valve a little bit, and letting your city/town water system flow into your heating system. Then close the valve when the pressure gauge reaches 12.
It's not difficult. It's no harder or more dangerous than filling your tub 1/4 full of water, then turning off the faucet when the water reaches the desired level. But you do want to open the valve only a tiny crack, just enough to allow water to slowly dribble into the heating system and raise the pressure slowly.
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to be very clear the orange valve will stop water pressure from the water company from going in your heater.
It works just like a valve at the. Kitchen sink. The valve keeps the water from coming out of the faucet. When you open the kitchen sink valve water will come out of the faucet. Nothing dangerous about water coming out of the kitchen faucet.
The orange valve on the boiler keeps the water pressure from the city water company from going above 12. PSI on your gauge. Right now your gauge is at zero. You need your gauge to be at 12 PSI. Open the orange valve to let the water pressure from the city water company into your boiler. Do not fully open the valve. Only open the valve 1/8 of a turn. This will allow you to watch the gauge. As the pressure on the cage rises you can keep an eye on the pressure. When the gauge gets close to 10 PSI get ready to close the valve. When the gauge reaches 12 PSI close the valve.
if you are uncomfortable with this procedure, you should call a professional. The sooner you call a professional the sooner you’re upstairs will stop freezing.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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this conversation is becoming a little ridiculous. I wonder if @homesgal53 is a real person. Or if this is AI generated.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I'm on the edge of my seat here….
Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager,teacher and dog walker0 -
There are 2 zones upstairs, one is heating no problem and one isnt
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No AI generated,that's the stupidest thing I've ever heard. Just because I have a question and I'm overly cautious. You have a problem with me or don't want to be nice then go bother someone else
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I don't have a problem with you. I was just wondering why you did not follow anyone's advice about opening the orange valve in order to get your problem solved. If you don't feel safe with doing a little DIY to get your heat to work, then you should call a professional.
Did you open the orange valve yet?
At least I was able to get a LOL from you on that one.
I'm only trying to help and make some friends here.
I'm a lovable Guy… Just ask me… I'll tell you !
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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The expansion tank (Ex Tank) looks fairly new. 1. The tank is installed in the wrong place. It is on the supply side and not on the input to the pump side. But that's life. 2. To measure the air pressure on the air side of the Ex Tank one must drain down the water in the sys, however, there maybe another way to add air. 3. Zero on the boiler gauge may be a faulty gauge or no pressure in the sys. One must use another hose bibb 30# gauge plugged into the sys to verify pressure in the sys. I don't see an auto boiler supply cold water valve in your pics. In a closed sys without a auto supply valve, it only takes a couple of cups of water to lower the pressure to 0 psi. The water can disappear thu a leak (improbable) or thu the loss of air in the Ex tank and the bladder collapsing (most probable).
If slowly opening the orange valve (1), assuming that is the cold water supply to the boiler valve, that Ed pointed out and watching the pressure gauge on the boiler rise and shutting it off at 15 psi, would tell you that the gauge is probably OK. However, It would not tell you what the pressure on the air side of the Ex Tank is and that is important because the tank accepts the increase in the volume of water that expands as the water is heated in the boiler. Just adding water to the sys and raising the pressure to 15 psi to the sys with an inadequate air charge lessens the volume of heated boiler water that can be absorbed by the tank.
What you must do: Determine if you have an auto cold water feed valve. Check the sys pressure with another 30# hose bibb pressure gauge to see what the actual pressure in the sys is. Check the pressure on the air side of the Ex Tank (there is a plastic nob on the under side of the tank that you can unscrew and under the nob is a tire valve which you can use a tire gauge to measure the pressure). If the pressure in the tank is under 12-15 psi, you need to add air to the tank. You may need to drain down the water in the sys to accurately add air to the tank which means that you have to purge air from the pipes afterwards. However, there maybe another way.
The important thing is to let us know the air charge on the tank as it is now. If water comes out of the tire valve, you would probably need a new tank, but, I don't think that water will come out.
So, you have work to do before anything else. Answer the question, what is the air charge on the ExTank?
I could do all this in less time it took me to write this if I was there.
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I can vouch that Ed is definitely a friendly, helpful, dare I say lovable guy! He has given excellent free advice and is just wondering why you aren't taking it. It's OK to be cautious. But if you or someone else doesn't open that orange valve, your problem is not going to get fixed.
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We're not on anyone's payroll here. We're here to help. For free. Just not with the Christmas decorations. We charge for that.
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Still wondering about that orange valve and what mysterious entanglement may have taken place in Ontario Canada after that valve was opened. Perhaps we will never know.
As long as there is a blue valve, there is hope of survival.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
"No one is explaining anything about orange just saying to open which I'm pretty sure is dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and it literally says "water something" on it so I'm not just going to blindly open it. And the gage isn't the issue since the temp works on the gage…" Good thinking, gal. Were talking about Pressure, tho, which is zero on the gauge.
I assumed that the orange valve is the boiler cold water feed to the boiler sys. I would like to know where it originates. Opening that valve may allow street water pressure into the boiler if there isn't a pressure reducing valve on that line.
I gave you a series of steps to take before opening that orange valve. The reason is to determine why the pressure on the gauge is at zero.
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She may be off defusing a nuclear device. Which can be just as dangerous as opening the orange valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8jCEUcXtUI
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it's a long thread
known to beat dead horses1 -
Agree with you on this. And it would be much shorter if someone had a sense of humor and opened the orange valve just a little.
But I know that you like this stuff by your signature tag line.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I think this discussion has run its course. Thanks.
@HomerJSmith, I've removed your sexist comment. Those attitudes are not welcome here. Please follow site rules and be respectful.
Forum Moderator
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