HOT WATER BECKETT AF NOZZLE AND IGNITORS COVERED IN HEAVY SOOT

ww

Delco DB4 boiler with 1.25 80 degree hollow nozzle.

Boiler completely cleaned one month ago…vacuum,brushed,etc…new chamber matte..all set to spec as well as z dimension…draft over fire was 2 and breech was 4…clean oil..was primed..filters ok…transformer working…photos attached.

The chamber has alot of soot on sides and on matte…as well as at the test hole for draft on side of boiler..this is thick coating.

Heat working yesterday and cut off three degrees before hitting temperature…was on safety and hit button and saw puffback…coming from where gasket is near tube entrance and it was white smoke….turned it off. Checked pressure…no drop whatsoever and chamber dry.

Any ideas on this one?

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SuperTech

Was a combustion analysis performed? It sounds like it wasn't and the combustion is poor or the flame is unstable.

EdTheHeaterMan

insufficient combustion air.

Somwone needs to learn how to use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-SPT1-Smoke/dp/B0039OT3DO

captainco

Change nozzle to Semi-solid and retest.

clammy

Is that not a quite old boiler that was originally design was for a low rpm burner 1750 not the present 3450 rpm burner? It s been well over 25 years since i have worked on one which still had a low rpm gun and ran fine till the nozzle assembly broke and there where no viable repairs so it was replaced w a weil gold w a tankless and after limping along w that old delco and low rpm gun the weil was a huge step up and of course fuel consumption went down goin from maybe 70 %eff to over 82 % . It was also nice to not have to work on a relic who time had clearly come and went when fuel oil was cheap . This is just me but at some point driving that model t with a v 8 will end ,being there is certain things when your in business that the liability of working on is no longer worth the risking of working on and since most want things to be perfect its hard to be perfect when working on a boiler designed for 1750 burner and a updated 3450 burner is installed .Again this is me and i dont mind working on stuff 50 years plus on the boiler or system side but when a low static burner is replaced on old boiler like a old delco w a high static new burner there is usually always issues and its a fine line between no smoke and excessive air and high stack temp . Pick which one you want one thing for sure they equal either soot ,crappy flame and wasted fuel . low fire baffle some more band aids

take w a grain of salt

peace and good luck clammy

ww

Ok Clammy..After seeing that adding alot of air by opening up the main air bands the smoke didn't change all that much..and after hearing alot of comments regarding this issue I was thinking about the problems caused from the low rpm to high rpm changes as well!..I closed the wide open shutters and adjusted it back to what I had and it runs fine..as well as the temp going way down as well..I figure I'll try a smaller nozzle as suggested as well and see about changes in angle as well..may decrease fuel and require less air…don't know but easy enough to try…seems like I can't just walk into plumbing supplies anymore and get nozzles and parts so will have to wait for things to come in from online. I did the best with the draft and smoke so will see what happens. Just out of curiosity I imagine when replaced with the new high speed one..I guess they just didn't make the low speed anymore? didn't anyone figure there would be problems or just figured these old boilers would have been scrapped soon?

captainco

If you ever walk into a room with an oil burner and there is a of combustion air. you will be carried out.

captainco

clammy

Also possibly chk noz size and be sure the correct f head is installed for the noz your running and if there is too much excess air then possibly a low fire baffle needs to be installed. Hopefully you have a smoke tester ,draft gauge and a combustion analyzer to set it up properly you know pump pressure ,cut off, draft . Also chk your chimney base and vacuum or get a sweep done, especially if no one has pulled the smoke pipe and checked the chimney and the base ,usually done at yearly service or should be by some oil techs i would hope guys still do this i know i used to when i did oil . Combustion air as mentioned is vital and w a tight home or a whole house ventilator or large kitchen exhaust can cause issue w lack of combustion air and or negative pressure in the home which will cause sooting issues been there seen it and had the soot to prove it . Unless armed w the diagnostics tools you will just be fiddling about and it will surely be hit or miss and possibly more soot . As basic advice i tell all oil customer's to find a reputable oil company and have them put you on auto fill and pay them for a oil burner service contract which usually or as i remember our service contract included yearly service and most oil burner parts where included excluded where electronics aside from burner low water cut offs ,pressuretrol and aquastats . This being said is because only oil co have 24 hour emergency service, most will offer and it will not be free especially after hours of the other usually will make ya wait and you will be charged for every part being most do not offer a service contract w burner parts included .

Remember if they do not have a combustion analyzer at a mim they are worthless and do not let them do any burner adjustments and seek a full service oil company this is what they do not air conditioning not plumbing not handi man a oil guy . i have rarely seen any or most hvac or plumber have a clue . No offensive to those in those field who are competent and are equipped properly and have a clue . every body can fake it and talk a good game that's the easy part , Get it running smoke and issue free a old timer who's worked on old junk being most who will be sent where born way after that thing s was casted by 30 or 40 years .

This being said most hvac /plumber will not cover any parts and you will be on the hook . The other route is study ,buy the proper diagnostic tools understand the sequence of operation and the set the burner perimeters proper excesse air /co /o2 and go from there . Not all jobs are fitted for a home owner w some mech skills especially when putting your own and your families safety at hand dealing w combustion . But this choice is yours being no one works for free ..

PS i don t not want to come off as a blow hard and certainly not a know it all just some dude that been around the block a few times spinning a couple of wrench's for a few decades and completely under stand the end results of cause and effect and buddha's four noble truths . i firmly believe that some things should be left to the skill w experience unless your willing to deal w issue that you may create and the time to get it correct .

peace and good luck clammy