Radiant floor model
this was made loop cad. building is 32x60x14 5" concrete floor. Gonna be spray foam insulated. i have insulated the perimeter of the building also with R-15 foam board. Also, will have down the week some heat sheet heavy. Next year i plan installing mini spits for heat/ac. the blank spot are for a 2 post lift.
do yall think this will work pretty well?
Comments
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sure it will work. What type of boiler? Is the slab poured already?
If it was my shop I’d spend the extra bucks and tube it 6”, or 8”.
Put that change into loop cad and see how it affects SWT and slab output. Plus you get faster recovery. I’d also do all you can to keep the tube up into the pour. 2” below the surface is ideal. At the bottom of a 5” slab your SWT goes up, as does downward loss.20% glycol is pretty weak. Most glycol manufacturers recommend 30% minimum. With a 20% you need to boost the inhibitor package. Glycol blenders can do this for you. The inhibitors are in glycol to address the blend water. When you use 80% water, you need more inhibitors.
You only get one chance to put the tube in the concrete
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Okay thank you for the information. I will lower the tube spacing. I honestly don't know a thing about what % glycol i was just guessing, so should i use 30% or do you recommend higher? The slab is not poured yet, also i live in West Virginia so the temps don't get extremely low thankfully.
I'm thinking about getting a Navien NCB-190/060H combi-boiler.
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might end up getting a rinnai i60
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I would not use glycol unless you absolutely need too. Is the shop is un attended for long periods in the winter, frequent power outages?
Use an Ecobee thermostat and it will notify you is the system is down. A small 2000 or 3500w generator will run most hydronic systems
I wire my systems to a cord which plugs into the wall receptacle. So quick and easy to connect to a generator,
I also run my shop on constant circulation. The Grundfos Alpha runs at 43 W so very little power consumption. I have south facing windows in the overhead door. When the sun come in and warms the concrete. The constant circulation moves that energy around the entire slab. It also keeps a consistent temperature in the slab by keeping it flowing And it keeps the loops at the overhead door, the most at risk to freezing, safer
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
The shop will be used year around, and I have a generator just in case but we hardly ever get power outages. Plus if something would happen to the boiler the mini splits might keep the concrete warm enough so they don't freeze. Am I thinking right?
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Personally I would skip the glycol. It expensive, leak and maintenance prone, takes more pump power and less heat transfer compared to water. Use good water, the boiler will have a water spec in the manual.
You could get a day or so, without heat added, before a 5" slab cools down to a freezing point.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream-1
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