WM QB-180 maintenance ??
Burner maintenance...are u familiar with the QB-180 burner?
incase i need a tech who knows this burner and has the guages ect .. would you know someone in South Jerey(Philly) that is reasonable? Ive read some bad stores about un knowlegable and expensive Techs…thx
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Im extremely familiar with the QB-180 burner but I am not in your area. Unfortunately Weil McLain has discontinued making replacement parts for those oil burners, so normal wear and tear items like the electronic igniter and electrodes are no longer available. It makes keeping one of those burners working reliably difficult.
Fortunately there's a solution. In my area the local Sid Harveys sells complete Beckett AFG burners designed for those Weil McLain boilers. I replaced two of them already this year and I wasn't sad to see the QB-180s go. I'm sure you can get a Carlin or Riello burner for those boilers as a replacement as well. The replacement burner does need to be setup and commissioned by someone who has a digital combustion analyzer and tools for setting oil pump pressure.
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The QB-180 is gone for a reason.
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Thx for the reply SuperTech…mine is still kicken .. I was able to get a spare transfomer and electro kit but I have not worked on one of these .. I have done Beckets but this is a little different. I what to do the nozzel, strainer and filter and have someone turn it wit Pump pressure,c/o, smoke test ect … any advice ?? guess no one know anyone in SJ.Philly that work on these ??
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I don't know anyone off top of my head. Did you try the find a contractor tool on this website? Perhaps @STEVEusaPA might work in that area or know someone? He's one of the most knowledgeable oil burner technicians you can find.
Those burners can be finicky. If you touch it make sure you put the cam on top of the burner back in the correct position.
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I actually have a hard copy manual somewhere. I'll see if I can dig it up and post some pics of the guideline settings. Might take a few days. Its time to clean out the shed anyway.
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TY..that could be helpful…I do have that manual that is posted online with the nozzle,cam & air settings. Problem is i do not have the gauages to do the tune and they look like big $$$… LOL
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This is a link to the manual. You can download and print
This burner will eventually fail at some point, where you need to source a WM proprietary part that is no longer available. Once that happens your only choice will be to get a Beckett or Carlin that is made for that boiler and replace the QB. You just need to decide when that will be. Now or in an emergency in January on a weekend when you need to pay overtime rates then wait until the supply houses open on Monday to find out that they need to order that particular burner and it will be in on Wednesday. So we can install it on Thursday. The day after your pipes freeze and burst.
The choice is yours
The funny thing about this is that my son has a QB in his Buderus Boiler because we had just finished rebuilding it for inventory to use in case a low income customer needed one. When the 30 Year old Riello failed one evening, it was easier to swap out the QB than to fix the Riello at the time. LOL
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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You are correct .. nothing last forever I guess … when u say WM proprietary part that is no longer available what parts are you taking about ?? I have spare transformer, electrods w/wire, oil line, can get nozzles and other parts at the parts store.
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There are standard parts that most oil burner manufacturers use (except Riello). The transformer, the fuel pump the burner motor, nozzles and the like. The WM proprietary parts are the housing, the air adjustment air settings, The cam adjustment, that nozzle assembly, the flame retention disk, and some other pieces are not common to other manufacturers. The electrode assembly is a unique part also. It is similar to the Riello electrode assembly, but not exact. And the white wires that attach to the ignition transformer were difficult to source 8 years ago. I did find some and ordered 2 sets, have used them since. Eventually those ignition parts may fail and then you will have to deal with that. Good thing that you have a backup for those.
That has been my experience anyway. The flame retention ring is the part that will cause you problems if that ever falls apart at a welded joint, Be very careful handling that when cleaning it.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Thx Ed ,,, are you talking about the SpinnerAssembly ?? I have not changed the nozzle yet .
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@EdTheHeaterMan a QB-180 to replace a Riello on a Buderus of all things?! Wow. I would literally start laughing if I walked up to that, but I understand why you did it at the time.
@edplu it sounds like you have the most common parts that usually fail, the ignition parts. I would strongly recommend using a modern interrupted ignition primary control on that burner to reduce the wear and tear on the ignition components. The Carlin 60200 is my favorite, set it for 10 seconds trial for ignition. The Honeywell/Resideo R7284U set for 15 seconds trial for ignition is another great option.
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Yes the spinner is called a Flame Retention head. Some Beckett Burners have the head as part of the end cone, Carlin, Riello and most Wayne burners have them attached to the end of the nozzle adaptor like your QB.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I have a Allison on there now .. how do u set them ?
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Allison is an electronic ignition that develops a 14,000 Volt Spark. Nothing to set. Just connect the white electrode wires to the secondary and connect the primary side to 120 VAC from the primary control orange or blue connection.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Sorry SuperTech… i thought u ment transformer … lol…. this is my control … u mean upgrage this one ???
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Oh yeah. If you're looking to do the maintenance yourself, then you need more than a burner manual. A lot more. Even an experienced oil tech who isn't familiar with that particular burner, it's not like first looking at a Riello. But having the gauges and combustion equipment is key.
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Yes, ditch that control. It keeps the ignition components powered the entire time the burner is running. No need for that. It's like holding a lighter up to a candle that is already burning.
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Would you have a link to the ones you are refering to ?? There are a several models …thx
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Yea,,im tryingto find someone who knowa that burner and has the tools in SJ/Philly area…I guess this board covers the NY area…lol
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I'm in South Carolina….
And we have visitors from UK on occasion.
The Carlin Primary Control you want is the 70200S Pro X. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Carlin-Combustion-70200S-Pro-X-Universal-Oil-Primary-Control-120-VAC?_br_psugg_q=70200s
There are many diagnostic features available for solving some hard to find problems. You can wire the Ivnition on the blue connector and it will drop out after 15 seconds. When using that control that way, I find that the electrode points look like the day they were new, after operating for a year
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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There are no contractors near you on the Find A Contractor. North Jersey and Media PA are the closest ones to you. and that seems like a trek for them to south Jersey (near the Walt Whitman Bridge). there was an Enright oil company in Sewell NJ that I remember that had a decent service department. But that was a few years back, with all the buyouts they may or may not still be in business under that name.
I do know that the McAllister folks also had a good service department. But I believe they sold the fuel oil business a few years back. I believe they still do repair service in your area. If any of the old timers are still on the payroll thay may be able to work on that oil burner.
Riggins from Vineland NJ may also be able to help you. If you call for service and you get to talk to JR, tell him Ed Young Says Hello. …and that I still have the same cell number if he wants to catch up some time.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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My mistake on the model number of the Carlin primary control on my previous post. Ed has the link for the one I was referring to. Thanks Ed!
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THx Ed !!! How would I wire that control ? it has a lot of connections… mine only has the cad cell and the thermo connected ??
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TT should be jumped on yours. Wiring COULD be the same. WM might have run an additional Red wire that's not connected. Is there a molex connection in the B/X to the burner? If so, you can have the new control wired constant hot to L1, for a permanent display on the primary, and limit from B1 on the aquastat. OR, B1 on the aquastat to a jumped L1/Limit at the primary. This way, the display will only be on when there is power to the burner (a call for heat or hot water).
In either case, the primary must be programmed for your setup and preference. Delayed oil valve? Interrupted ignition? TT configured on?
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not sure about the extra red wire ?? the squggly wire is the thomo wire .. if i get that control ill prob need ur help programming it … Thx HVacnut !!
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Here is your wiring diagram. Top is how to remove the R8184G primary and install the Carlin. It is connected to an older HydroStat aquastat. I have all the colors for each component as they will be connected to the Carlin 70200. To get the most performance from that control you should connect a limit wire to the LIMIT terminal on the Carlin 70200. You should also connect a separate Red wire to the L1 IN terminal
The bottom diagram is how to do it with the 4 pin plug that is often used to connect the burner to the boiler
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I see from the picture you just posted that you have a steam boiler with the float type LWCO. This would be the Steam boiler wiring diagram with the 4 important wires for the Carlin 70200 that should be prewired to the 4 pin plug from the boiler.
You still use the top color coded diagram for the Honeywell 3 wire to Carlin 70200 diagram above. If you 4 pin connector does not have all 4 wires connected at the boiler side, then there is another way to connect the Carlin 70200 that I can explain if needed.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Ok, you've got a steamer. The primary is constant 120v Hot through the limits, and TT is connected to the thermostat. There looks to be a delayed oil valve, so the new primary needs to be set for pre purge.
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Ok..thc .. if I get that control ill lyk..finally fired up the stearm boiler since I cleaned the pigtail and extensed the main vent. Heres what happened. heater ran for over hour+b 4 it shutdown cuz it reach the thermo setting, one floor with a finish attic 6 rads & 1 same rad in the attic. Followed heat down the pipe. 1,2,3,4 rads were getting hot, rad 6 end of run slower and rad 5 slower yet. Rad in attic started ticking and never got hot. Tryed to let air out but still didnt get hot. Rad 2 has steam spitting out the vent ? Presure got to 1.5 on the gauage. A little bit of smoke coming from the main vent. A few questions??
How long does it usally take for the system to heat up ?? What can I do to get the rads to get hot more evenly and the one in the attic hot?? O and I see a little soot out of the peek hole.
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Can some please help with this above ?? Im trying to get a vent for the rad 2,, i guess a #5 …any advise would help .. TY
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You would be better off starting a new thread in the steam category. That's where you'll find answers. Steam pros might see the "QB180" title and not even open the thread.
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