zone valve identification

Rickam

I have this old relic in my circuit. It allows water to flow, however it makes a ticking sound. i think it has WR stamped on it. White rogers possibly.

I dont know much about these devices. what are my chances of gutting the device in situ. I have a mill, so I could machine a plate and gasket. it would be a big job to cut this out.

heatdog

Looks like White Rodgers. Use some Kroil if you are going to try and get it apart.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-F84-0435-1-1-4-Zone-Valve-Assembly?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users_Control&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlcyU9qXsiAMVikpHAR3jIxWyEAQYCCABEgJN6_D_BwE

EBEBRATT-Ed

Just replace it. No sense messing with it

hot_rod

turn it CCW a bit to disengage the hold down tab, then pull it out

Id try and reuse the brass body, it doesn’t look like it would be easy to remove close coupled like that

If you chose to replace the entire valve, there are union style valves that would be easier to install in that space

EdTheHeaterMan

It never amazes me that the DMV will issue a, Identification to just about anything.

Rickam

thanks everyone for your assistance on this bone trail. I'm going to have to leave this one for now. Its basically just an old relic restricting flow.

If it had been a honeywell model I may have been able to make up a plate and gasket then gut it (as they have 4 screws). This WR model uses a camlock then a stem with an o-ring. There is not enough meat in the housing to tap my own holes.

My system has about 600 liters of water in it so replacing the additives is costly (where I live). There are obstructions, and the valve is holding up a lot of other pipe.

its going to stay there for now (at least until next summer). thanks everyone for your great ideas. - I sure just wish it didn't make that rattling sound..

my plan is to omit/ cut the valve out, I dont know what my chances are at unscrewing one of those male 1-1/4" copper fittings from the iron (after cutting out the valve - leaving part of it for leverage) I'll use a torch on the female iron pipe.

My fear is that the flats will round off on the copper, then resorting to my pipe wrenches I'll just turn whats left of the soft fitting to mush. I'm not accustomed to working with copper threaded into iron.

EdTheHeaterMan

I think that having 600 liters of water can be a problem. If for example you only had only 158 gallons of water, then you might be better off.

neilc

goes to do some maths , , ,