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Removal of convector radiator cover

fsamo123
fsamo123 Member Posts: 47
edited September 24 in THE MAIN WALL

I got an air vent valve that hisses all day leaking water in this old house. I am trying to remove the cover but won’t budge. It been painted etc it move a little upwards. I am trying to find out how to release it if there is a screw etc. also there is a convector radiator and I need to know if air vent valve is

difficult to change on these steam system someone said pull cover up and out but it only moves a little there must be screw holding it somewhere. Also are the air valves usually frozen any tips for removalof cover and air valve

Miata

Comments

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    I’m really frustrated with this cover ready to pry it off got to be something simple I’m missing then I got to deal with the valve

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,223

    Looks like a lot of paint along the top where the front cover meets the main part of the enclosure. Use a box cutter or razor knife to cut along there to break the paint seal- go down the sides too. Then the front should come off.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    thank you I’ll try that today I think there are screws under paint somewhere too

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 717

    That front cover is hanging on a lip on the main cover and is likely paint glued pretty well. There could be screws at the bottom as well. That paint seal really needs to be broken to remove that cover.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager,teacher and dog walker
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,608

    Usually no screws on those. I have only found screws when the original catch at the bottom will not hold, allowing the bottom stay kicked out. Lift up at least 5/8" to 3/4" in order to release the bottom latch. Then pull out at the bottom about 2" from the convector and the top should fall below the top cover.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,931

    Bang the cover with the soft side of your fist to break loose the cover , Then lift up on the cover to release the bottom ….

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    I use to bang cover lift and pull too this one don’t budge so I’m going to take all paint off cover seems with utility knife spray wd40 and pray

    Then I’ll have to deal with a stuck air valve that’s been on there fo 50 years I’m not optimistic about doing this one lol

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,931

    Well ,yes they are old , You don't want to apply too much torque to the convector . There should be a bushing and a 3/8" vent . Use two wrenches to play it safe , second one to hold back on the torque applied to remove the vent ..

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    fsamo123
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,608

    Looks like you got the cover off. (picture third from the left). were there screws?

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    that’s not my. Cover but mine is also like that I’m soaking valve in kroil I’m afraid to touch it I don’t want it to snap. Lol

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,931
    edited September 29

    I understand , it will be extra work … If it does you will need to drill out and retap …

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    still can’t budge this vent I have been soaking it in kroil. I use two wrench and apply even strength and it won’t give. I’ll keep soaking it

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    I don’t want to snap it

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    must be 80 years old. Lol

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    is the silver nut part on top part of the vent or should I be grabbing the cylinder section of the vent never saw this before and I don’t want it to break

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,608
    edited October 6

    Do not use the round part of the vent, that is thin metal and you will distort it.  two wrenches. one on the steel bushing below and one on the chrome HEX above.  You can get a 12" pipe wrench on the lower steel HEX and add a 24" long pipe to that wrench, you can get any size wrench on the upper chrome HEX and put an extension pipe on it also.   I can't see that combination of leverage failing you. 

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    yeah but will I snap it. Btw Ed the firebox was non asbestos it was ceramic fiber but don’t know if they used asbestos furnace cement under edges I’m not going to worry about it.. I’m pretty big and strong and I’m afraid if I apply a lot of strength to the bushing and vent any I will snap it I applied like 80 percent of my strength so far I’m scare to go further are these vents strong

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    I know you know your stuff so far you are always right ? Just tell me you you use to do it and I’ll try


    the kroil isn’t helping so far

  • Gsmith
    Gsmith Member Posts: 436

    sometimes tightening a little first then gently tapping the wrench with a hammer while loosening helps.

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,608

    HEAT.  acetylene torch… but be careful, have a fire extinguisher at your side and some wet towels to cool it down after you get it cherry red.  The thermal shock will often help. Use a small tip on the torch (not too small). Just enough to cover the bushing with flame.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Lyle {pheloa} Carter
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,608

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    I just hope those treads on that vent are stronger than 1/8 air vents. I had bad feeling about this vent knowing it like 75 years old

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    it looks so easy but it not and if it breaks I got bigger problems

  • fsamo123
    fsamo123 Member Posts: 47

    finally got it off soaked it in kroil for a week and use 2 slim pipe wrenches it finally came off cleanly no damage. Was a 1/4 inch steam air valve. Thanks everyone. I was loosing a lot of water every day in boiler. I thought boiler was leaking from sections out the chimney. But I flooded boiler nothing came out. So now I’m checking all the radiators. So far found 3 leaks, I didn’t think they could cause a lot of water loss but they do. My 75 year old arcoliner don’t want to die. I don’t know how much longer but I just added new burner and other parts and repainted it it must have good metal I’m amazed it’s like a tank lol