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LP Gas Water Heater problem

frodo4eva
frodo4eva Member Posts: 2
in THE MAIN WALL

Hi everyone - could use your help. We have a 40 gallon Kenmore LP Gas Water heater. The pilot keeps going out after ruling out a few possibilities. These being Lack of draft and/or obstacles around it, thermostat/switch (replaced), and thermocouple (burner assembly) replaced. When the pilot goes out and I try to reignite, once it goes on I have to keep pressing down the on/off switch until it actually stays on and can turn the thermostat on until the burner lights. If I don’t keep pressing the button the light just dwindles down. I cannot explain why - am hoping you guys do because having to constantly turn the darn thing on is chaos. When it is on I also dont know what makes it go off - perhaps when more than one thing is running that requires heat - no idea. Please help 🙏🙏

Attached is the model number in case.

IMG_7746.jpeg

Thanks so much!

Comments

  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,580

    Hi, The first thing I'd check is airflow. Is the air inlet screen clean? Then is the vent able to draft? If it's been burning poorly for a while, the baffle inside of the tank could be sooted up. It sounds like the unit is starved for air.

    Then it may be that the thermocouple is not being heated adequately. This could be because the pilot orifice is dirty or the thermocouple isn't placed to get enough heat from the pilot flame. Can you get a photo of the pilot flame for us?

    Yours, Larry

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,402

    Acts like a bad thermocouple. Take everything apart and clean it thoroughly and try it again

  • frodo4eva
    frodo4eva Member Posts: 2

    Hi Larry!


    Thanks for the reply - here are two pictures, when pilot is on and when the unit is on. It was off again just now so had to reignite it. Takes several pushes of the igniter button - it’s a pain. As stated in the other post, it’s not the thermocouple, I replaced the whole burner assembly except the flame dish. If it’s airflow - what else can no do or check? When I changed the burner assembly I vacuumed out any residue… thanks so much for the assistance!

    IMG_8288.jpeg
    IMG_8289.jpeg
    IMG_8290.jpeg

  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,580
    edited August 4

    Hi, When you vacuumed out the combustion chamber, was there any soot? If you found some, remove the vent pipe and draft hood. Then pull the baffle up and out of the tank. Is it sooted up? If so, use it as a tool to knock loose soot inside of the heater and then wash the baffle with water and vacuum the combustion chamber again. See if the burner works correctly now.
    If that wasn't the problem, I'd be looking at gas pressure. It sounds like you already have a new pilot assembly, so the pilot orifice shouldn't be a problem.
    If gas pressure is good, I'd be talking with the manufacturer to see if that gas valve has any history of problems.
    One more thought. If air supply is restricted, loosening the plate that has the window in it will let air into the combustion chamber. Do this only as a test as it bypasses the FVIR system. But if it burns well, the air supply is blocked and wants to be cleaned.

    Yours, Larry

  • Bob Harper
    Bob Harper Member Posts: 1,086

    I'd add to Larry's excellent advice: If the chimney is partially blocked or not venting, the unit will spill CO2, which is heavier than air and displaces oxygen. That shuts off pilots. This can be measured with a combustion analyzer held at the floor sampling the O2 level. Normal is 20.9%. If you see it falling, it's a venting issue. You should have a patent chimney liner or vent above all else.
    If there is a clothes dryer in the same room or it is dusty. kids or pets, the spark arrestor screen can clog limiting airflow and causing incomplete combustion>CO, soot, etc.

    Larry Weingarten

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