EK System 2000 tank replacement questions and help

LHG1

I have an EK system 2000. I replaced the original storage tank many years ago with a standard 40-gallon water heater. I recently had to do this again (with the same AOC tank) and wired it the same way. I wire the thermostat wires from the EK to the lower thermostat wires only. I have never had an issue. The demand light would come on and heat the water and when heated shut off the demand. For some reason the demand light is always lit and keeping the EK hot and ready when the temp in the tank drops a little bit. I have back flushed the heat exchanger and tried a number of wiring configurations. When I leave for work, I take one lead off the thermostat, so the EK doesn't sit all day hot. I have read a number of ideas on this site and am still baffled. I did see Roger mention an Electric Tank Conversion Kit but can't seem to find that. Please send back any suggestions. Thanks Len

jringel

The electric tank conversion kit includes the specialized dip we use. This dip tube is sealed at the bottom with outlet holes in the side to increase the amount of hot water the tank can supply. in regards to you having a constant call from the tank, if the demand shuts off when you remove a wire from the thermostat on the tank it may be either a bad thermostat or you didn't remove the wires going to the electric elements which may be providing a path for the signal to go through. I would make sure that the only wires connected to that thermostat go directly to the system manager. If there are any other wires going to the upper thermostat or the electric elements I would disconnect them. If this doesn't work send me pictures of the wiring at the tank and the manager to jringel@energykinetics.com

LHG1

Hi John, thanks for helping me out. I am attaching pictures that I took of the old heater that I replaced with the wiring configuration. I have done the same thing on the new tank and still get the constant call light. I have also tied connecting directly to the heating coil but obviously this just connects the circuit. Would the hot water being made not be hot enough to kick the tank thermostat off? I have never had this problem in the past 3 tanks I have replaced. For now I am just removing a lead to not have the constant demand light. I appreciate your help

Len

jringel

You sent 2 pictures of the thermostat. In the upper one it looks like the elements are hooked up and in the lower it looks like they are disconnected. I would remove all the wires from the thermostat except the 2 going to the manager and see if the call goes away. Is the tank heating up? Are you getting hot water at the sinks? With a constant call you actually should be overheating the tank. If the tank is not overheating and you are getting hot water, we may have something else going on there like some bleed by voltage. It might be best to reach out to me through the tech support number 800-323-2066 when you are in front of the boiler. it would be best if you had a multi meter and a digital thermometer when you call.

LHG1

Hi John, Sorry I was away. I shut the heater off when we were gone. The tank is heating up and we are getting hot water at the sinks. once the tank heats up the boiler shuts down, but it sounds like a circulator may still be running. When the boiler temp drops it turns on again. I will try to reach out to you tomorrow with my cell phone and meter.

Thanks Len

jringel

For anyone who was following this post the issue was not electrical. There was a restriction in the piping that was not allowing the water to circulate. Len has addressed this and the water heater is now operational.