Main Radiant zone Panel off Polaris Tank
Hello, I have used Polaris systems for domestic and radiant on several occasions and quite frankly, I'm a fan. The last one I did was about 12-14 Years ago. I had the panels made in the shop for me. (I'm a retired Builder) and 1_ I never had an I phone in my pocket to preserve pictures, and 2_ my memory is almost useless. So I'm hoping one of you young and brilliant people can help me design it. I have 8 radiant zones that I ran 3/4" feeds and returns to with balanced loops not exceeding 250 feet from individual manifolds at each zone. So I have 8 feeds and 8 returns to connect in the boiler room and one zone valve per each zone. I know how to run the feed and supply from the Polaris, But I seam to remember running that through a heat exchanger before feeding the main supply manifold, although at times some zones were heating pools or hot tubs, so I'm not really sure if I actually need it.
I can't remember if I had a mixing valve either as I used to run my in floor heatg below 90 deg. Can't imagine it feeding 140 deg. water through the lines.
I know I need air relief and an expansion tank
Don't remember a pump on each individual zone,
But I'm asking for advise or a recommendation of someone the knows someone in the Novato California area that is proficient with this sort of thing.
Appreciate any help I can get.
Thanks All,
Michael
Comments
-
I'm neither young nor brilliant, but Novato is not far from Berkeley.
berkeleyradiant@gmail.com
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
2 -
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
It is best to separate the DHW from the heating water with a plate HX. It is simple to do with a pump HX air sep and expansion tank. That tank has 2 extra 1" side taps, connect the HX there with a stainless circulator.
Iron circ for the heat side is fine.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Oops, Alan out classed me on the schematic
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Cut and paste is never as good as your fine drawings.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
Hey guys>
You're awesome! Can't thank you enough
0 -
Hey guys,
would you mind commenting on my drawing, just to be sure I've got this right?
0 -
0 -
Note the circulator location in both Alan's and Hot_Rod's drawings
0 -
Did you choose to ignore the details in both diagrams?
- Do not temper the water coming out of the heater. You want it HOT. The tempering valve should go on the domestic side.
- Reverse the supply and return from the side tappings. The hottest water will be at the top of the tank.
- You want counterflow circulation through the HX, NOT parallel flow.
- Add a fill valve with bypass and purge on the radiant side.
- Properly size the HX and pumps for your large load.
- You might want a dedicated boiler for 4,500 [] That's close to a 100,000 BTU house.
I would run 1" feeds to the manifolds.
While the Polaris is an extremely reliable heat source, it will be without the benefits of a modern hydronic boiler, outdoor reset having the greatest value.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
If you run the tank over 120F you should have a mixing valve. Caleffi n520 angle mix
The top port of the side tap is hot to the floor HX module.
Do you know the temperature the floor loops require? 100- 110° maybe?
The tank temperature will vary 10° of more, so the supply to the foor will run a bit cooler than the tank temperature.
Is someone building that HX module?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Hey guys,
Once again thanks,
As I said before, used to have a guy in Vancouver Canada build these for me, but he's too busy being retired now, Anyone close to Novato interested in taking this on?
I've been retired for over 5 years now , but helping my sister build her house.
0 -
Everything you've said makes sense, but i'm not sure how you add cold to a closed system, Does the Caleffi 573 control the pressure as well as mix the water?
0 -
That's usually a 1/2" pipe for the Caleffi fill valve.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
Did you say you were in Berkley?
0 -
Yes. You can call me at (510) 773-9870 or e-mail berkeleyradiant@gmail.com
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
I'm beginning to think i should start all over?
1 -
Hey Alan, I looked you up on the internet. Would you be interested in building this for me. I want a great solder job and professional layout. Hopefully without taking up so much space. My old guy (not as old as me) never exceeded 5' in width.
Just a thought? i'd make the drive.
0 -
I can do half that in width…………….but it might be 6' in length.
Near-boiler piping dimensions are a function of the complexity of a system. From what you have given us so far, it should be very straightforward and easy to design. But the first step to any design is to find out more about the heatloss of the structure and how you want the tubing installed. The former has to do with insulation details, window sizes, ceiling heights, design temperature, etc. The latter has to do with where the tubing goes, i.e. Warmboard, Gypcrete, slab-on-grade…….
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
THIS IS MY LAYOUT FOR BASEMENT IN SLAB ON 2" OF HD STYRO.
MAIN FLOOR IS NOT INSTALLED YET, BUT WILL BE IN 1-1/2" GYPCRETE OVER 3/4" PLYWOOD AND R19 ROCKWOOL INSULATION.
NOTE: THIS IS AN ADD ON FOR PRIMARY FORCED AIR AIR HANDLER AND HEAT PUMP WITH COMBINED HRV.
0 -
It looks like you've done this before as there's nothing glaringly wrong. Other may disagree.
How thick is the basement slab? Have you poured it already?
Spacing looks correct. Is it 9" on some of the outside walls and entry and 12" otherwise?
Why are you heating the mechanical room? It will be toasty in there without the radiant.
Is the downstairs manifold in the mechanical room? If not, that's where I would put it.
The main room next to the kitchen with the high ceiling and all that glass may need tighter spacing throughout. Hard to tell without some heatloss calculations.
What about the mezzanine?
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 916 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements