A little advice

bagodemo · May 13

I have the chance to either leave this as is or make some changes I just removed a WM EG-45 and I'm replacing with a W GSA-125 after measuring the radiators, here are some pictures of my setup. I think I need to make some changes.

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EBEBRATT-Ed · May 13

Just follow what the boiler mfg recommends. They want a 2 1/2" riser out of the boiler and a 2 1/2" header. The existing tee you have can remain as long as the inlet at the bottom is at least 2 1/2" if it is smaller than 2 1/2" change the bushing

Or you can get rid of the tee and drop both supplies down into the header keep them the same size as they are with no reduction.

Do not come out of the boiler tapping and go into the tee without making a proper header that will never work and be a big mistake.

Just follow the mfg. instructions for the piping and the equalizer.

bagodemo · May 13

Ok so I'll remove that tee and call it a day

Thank You.

EdTheHeaterMan · May 13

I don't like the looks of that tee. Leaving it there makes is look like an amateur didn't know what they were doing. Even if it works, it still looks bad, and your name is on that thing for many years. Something like this would look much better. And it will work great too.

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bagodemo · May 13

I will be pouring a concrete pad today because the floor is not level and when I removed the pipes the boiler was rocking a bit. After that I will start piping.

Thank You.

bagodemo · May 13

Excellent illustration

Thank You.

The Steam Whisperer · May 15

Since you have a 3 inch tapping on that boiler, I'd start with a maybe 3 x 12 inch nipple ( or as long as you can fit) and then reduce down to 2 1/2. That kills the velocity coming out of the boiler and its likely little or no water will ever make it to the header. This is a cheap way to really get the boiler performing well.