Broken pipe, air in system

Malawi17044

I haven’t used my oil baseboard heat in almost 2 years and I had a pipe break randomly upstairs it sprayed for about 5 to 10 minutes in guess then stopped. The system was not turned on and I know it had a significant amount of air in the system (rushing water sounds when I last used it in 2021) we really only use the boiler for hot water for showers and cooking. I fixed the pipe and have been getting air out of the valves and some water all morning. I turned the heat on I hear some water moving but not much and a pumping noise from the boiler when it’s on. The pressure and temp remains constant. It wouldn’t really bother me but now the hot water to the house is hot, then warm, then hot again. It seems like hot water isn’t refilling the heating system. I don’t see a zone valve anywhere (1980s system). Not sure if anyone has any ideas what I should look for or what could be damaged?

Malawi17044

EdTheHeaterMan

Malawi17044 said:

I haven’t used my oil baseboard heat in almost 2 years and I had a pipe break randomly upstairs it sprayed for about 5 to 10 minutes in guess then stopped. The system was not turned on and I know it had a significant amount of air in the system (rushing water sounds when I last used it in 2021) we really only use the boiler for hot water for showers and cooking. I fixed the pipe and have been getting air out of the valves and some water all morning. I turned the heat on I hear some water moving but not much and a pumping noise from the boiler when it’s on. The pressure and temp remains constant. It wouldn’t really bother me but now the hot water to the house is hot, then warm, then hot again. It seems like hot water isn’t refilling the heating system. I don’t see a zone valve anywhere (1980s system). Not sure if anyone has any ideas what I should look for or what could be damaged?

You probably should look for a professional oil burner technician that is fluent in Hydronics.

mattmia2

We can help you bleed it but that burner needs to be cleaned and adjusted by a professional at least every couple years and that one is long over due.

EdTheHeaterMan

I see from your photo that Maintenance is not real high on your list of priorities. There are certain things like your automobile and your home that require regular upkeep. You might consider Food and Medical issues at the top of the list Then maybe your home's upkeep. If you need personal transportation to accomplish the first three, then you will want to keep things like the radiator fluid and the oil at a safe level so that your automobile will serve you well.

Every once in a wile you may want to exercise that thermostat to keep the juices flowing, and once a year have oil burner looked at by a professional. It is worth the expense for this little bit of maintenance to avoid expensive repairs caused by neglect.

Oops... we are already past that.

Now look at the water pressure on the gauge. It is measured in PSI and/or Feet. You should have at least 12 PSI on most heating systems. That is equal to about 28 feet. If it is lower than 12 PSI then you need to add water to increase the pressure. With no broken pipes and the pressure at 12 PSI the circulator pump should move the heated water from the boiler into the radiators in the house. If that is not happening then you most likely have air in the radiator pipes. Based on the type of radiators you have in your home (not in this photograph) you should be able to remove that air a number of different ways. Purging and venting are the two most common ways to get the air out of the system. Purging is used on series loop baseboard systems and radiant floor systems. Venting is usual done on cast iron radiators and many different convector systems. More information about your system is required in order to help you with getting rid of air.

Shoe a picture of the boiler from farther back so we can see the pipes from floor to ceiling. Also, show us a typical radiator from your home. If you have more that one type, then show all the different types of radiators.

Yours truly
Ed Young

EdTheHeaterMan

mattmia2 said:

We can help you bleed it but that burner needs to be cleaned and adjusted by a professional at least every couple years and that one is long over due.

Agree. And if you say that your just had the burner tuned up at the beginning of the heating season.... Then you need a different oil burner guy.

Malawi17044

I’ll get someone to check the system out irregardless to go over it. I honestly don’t even go into the late 1800’s basement more than once a year. The pressure is staying around 18 never less than 15 never more than 20. Temp regulated between 220 and 190. It’s all baseboard hot water and none of them have any vents. There are two in the basement and I added one on floor 2 when I replaced the broken pipe. The ones in the basement will steam and spit for 2 minutes or more with no water coming out. I was concerned when the pipe broke the the water stopped on its own. The heat system had been off for 2 years though. The house water loop now however goes from boiling hot, to room temp to warm. But not to hot unless you turn off the water for 10 minutes or so. 

Malawi17044

It was repaired about 4 years ago when I bought the house. Roughly 3 weeks after I bought the house part of the chimney collapsed . The hooked the boiler to the secondary chimney for a wood/coal stove I didn’t use and put a “blanket” back up? Went over the boiler and gave me a $4847 bill for parts and labor that day. I thought it seemed high but hvac clearly isn’t my area. 

Malawi17044

Malawi17044

Malawi17044

I was deployed for 11 months after the service it honestly wasn’t something we thought about as we only really use the system for hot water. I should have had someone come in my bad. 

EdTheHeaterMan

Not knowing what was done, the price is ambiguous Also NOT quoting prices for parts and labor is one of the rules of this website so we do not need the breakdown of what cost almost $5000.00
https://heatinghelp.com/forum-user-manual

But chimney work can be costly in old homes. And the fact that you were or are currently using a different flue in the chimney makes me think of the chimney rules. You never put an automatic fuel burning appliance (oil or gas) in the same flue as a hand fired appliance (coal or wood stove). Especially when the hand fired connector is above the automatic appliance connector. Translation: don't vent your basement oil burner smoke pipe in the same chimney flue as the first floor wood stove.

Malawi17044

The stove is disconnected after that. They hooked it in the new steel chimney the stove was attached to. He didn’t do any chimney work other than hooking up to the new chimney that was installed when I bought the house. 

EdTheHeaterMan

dko said:

Well, that's a nightmare

Think of how much money you could make in October selling tours thru that old basement. A few skeletons and some eerie Halloween music will make it just right for the customers. HOO HOO HOO HAA HAA HAA HAAAAAA

Grallert

One thing. The reason your vents are steaming and spitting is it's likely your making steam. I would lower that high limit to 180 and the low to 160. I only trust those gauges so far. With a vent on the second floor there's a good chance the air will come out eventually but more likely it will need to be purged out.