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Loud Noise from Pipes after Boiler Repair & Possible frozen pipe

Noahbalboah
Noahbalboah Member Posts: 6
edited January 26 in Radiant Heating
Some back story, we have a Noritz CB199-DV that came with our house. I had issues with it right before winter and worked with Noritz a bunch. I installed isolation valves myself and cleaned it, no dice. Had 3/4 different HVAC guys out who said they thought I could handle it myself and nobody seemed to want to help b/c they hadn't heard of Nortiz. Finally got a authorized repair guy from 2 hours away out (3 or 4 other guys in my area wouldn't call me back or answer) and he got them to send a replacement Heat Exchange, 3-way valve, AGM and flame sensor. This guy called this model the boiler from hell. Hopefully the replacement parts last.

I ended up replacing these parts myself a couple weeks ago and immediately had hot water, zone 2 heat and zone 3 heat. However, zone 1 (our main floor) would not heat. This was all right around the time Michigan (where I am) got very cold and there was 1 spot where pipes went up over the foundation and there was a good chance pipes froze.

Yesterday, a buddy was over, and we were trying to figure out where water was getting stuck (if at all) as it was in the 40's. I pulled out a shark bit coupler before one of our wall mounted heaters for the boiler and a bunch of rusty/black water drained out. I turned the zone on, and we got water coming out of that line. We hooked it back up and oddly enough, the zone started working.

That being said, a few hours later and throughout the night and this morning the pipes it seems get loud and almost a whirring noise. It seems like if I shut off zone 1 it goes away. Zone 2 and 3 don't seem to have this issue. They all 3 from my understanding share a circulation pump, so if it was that I would assume they would have the same noise.

My assumption is air and I'm thinking I may be doing something wrong to purge air from the system (I've been told a DIYer put this boiler in to begin with and did some stuff wrong? I'll be attaching photos of the system to this post below of the system. If anyone has any tips/ideas or things I should fix please let me know.

Side note, when we moved in a few years ago, we had a water softener installed right away. Since then I've also installed a whole house filter in front of it. So the water going in should be a lot better than it was when it was originally installed.

Comments

  • Noahbalboah
    Noahbalboah Member Posts: 6









  • JohnFX
    JohnFX Member Posts: 7
    There are 2 tees near the air separator. If that's supposed to be a primary-secondary connection, it is piped wrong


  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,005
    To purge out the air from the zone . By the zone valves , fine the zone that is not heating . Shut off the ball valve and and purge from the spigot above....

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Noahbalboah
    Noahbalboah Member Posts: 6
    Big Ed_4 said:

    To purge out the air from the zone . By the zone valves , fine the zone that is not heating . Shut off the ball valve and and purge from the spigot above....

    I've done this and it doesn't appear to help :disappointed:
  • Noahbalboah
    Noahbalboah Member Posts: 6
    JohnFX said:

    There are 2 tees near the air separator. If that's supposed to be a primary-secondary connection, it is piped wrong


    I believe Noritz support mentioned this, but kind of glazed over it. How should I fix this? Is it possible to use pex?
  • JohnFX
    JohnFX Member Posts: 7
    the two tees should be oriented as shown. For 1" copper there should be max 4" between the tees and 8" of straight copper to the left and the right. It appears you have some room for this. Copper is better than PEX for this. Remember to ream the copper to reduce turbulence.
  • Noahbalboah
    Noahbalboah Member Posts: 6
    JohnFX said:

    the two tees should be oriented as shown. For 1" copper there should be max 4" between the tees and 8" of straight copper to the left and the right. It appears you have some room for this. Copper is better than PEX for this. Remember to ream the copper to reduce turbulence.

    Do you think this could be related to the loud pipe noises? Or just a performance issue?
  • Noahbalboah
    Noahbalboah Member Posts: 6
    JohnFX said:

    the two tees should be oriented as shown. For 1" copper there should be max 4" between the tees and 8" of straight copper to the left and the right. It appears you have some room for this. Copper is better than PEX for this. Remember to ream the copper to reduce turbulence.

    Well the sound ended up being the circulator. Couple days ago there was a pinhole leak that was shooting out water. I replaced it and the noise is gone. But still curious how urgent the plumbing issue here is to fix.

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