No water to baseboards

Rodrigo

I had recently had a leak on a pipe and fixed it  so I drained the system and now I turned the water back on to fill the pipes and can’t  get water to the baseboards on the first floor the second floor works perfect both pumps are working I’ve closed zone two and and closed both red values and opened up the blue one to get air out I get a water for maybe 5 sec then nothing I would assume water suppose to keep coming out to get air out 

Intplm.

How is the house pressure? Are you on well?

EdTheHeaterMan

You will need to make sure that the water feed to the boiler is open.

When you are ready to purge (hose connected and placed in a bucket to watch for bubbles of air) and that bucket in a place where the water can overflow and not cause any damage. (like near a floor drain or outside)

Then you have the red valves closed and the one blue valve open where you want to get the air out of the pipes. Then you lift the tab on the fill valve and open the blue handle valve to let new water into the boiler.

When you lift the tab on the auto feed valve, watch the pressure gauge to be sure that it does not go over 25 PSI. If it does then close the manual tab on the auto feed valve and allow the water pressure to drop below 25. IF the pressure in the boiler goes above 30 PSI the relief valve will discharge water on the floor and you will have a wet floor. Not to worry, it's only water and it will dry up.

EdTheHeaterMan

When you lift the tab on the auto feed valve, watch the pressure gauge to be sure that it does not go over 25 PSI. If it does then close the manual tab on the auto feed valve and allow the water pressure to drop below 25. IF the pressure in the boiler goes above 30 PSI the relief valve will discharge water on the floor and you will have a wet floor. Not to worry, it's only water and it will dry up.

Rodrigo

So I let water into the back one and then closed both red I then flipped the switch for the pressure and went all the way to 25 and have open the blue value I got about quarter bucket of water and then no more water is coming out 

Rodrigo

How it is now with blue value open with both red closed and no water comes out 

EBEBRATT-Ed

Sounds like you have a valve closed or maybe the gate valve above you pump is broken internally after you shut it. Sometimes the handle will strip off the internal gate valve.

In addition although this may not be causing your immediate problem the boiler make up valve is connected to the pump suction yet the expansion tank is connected to the pump discharge.

Rodrigo

So also had loosen the pump to make sure water was getting to it and it is so which one would I look at next 
if I have the red value open I get water out of the blue one but the moment the red is closed nothing comes out of the blue so assuming water not getting to the first baseboard 

EdTheHeaterMan

This illustration on the right shows what might be happening with the pipes that are connecting the boiler to the baseboard radiators. If you use the fill valve as the starting point for the water source to the boiler, please follow the light blue arrow from the fill valve. Since the red valve is closed, the water from the feed valve can not go up. So all the water from the feed valve must go down into the boiler. Some of the water may go up to the other red valve so that one must also be closed.


If this illustration is too small, click on the file below to enlarge the illustration
Now continue to fill up the boiler with the water from the fill valve until the water gets to the supply (or outlet) pipe. At that point the water will make a decision to go to zone 1 or zone 2. Follow the light blue arrow to see the path of the water to the upper zone in the diagram (that upper zone may be the first or the second floor but it does not matter) The first stop is the FlowCheck Valve. If that valve arrow is not pointing the same way as the water flow, then that valve will not allow the boiler water to continue to the radiators. See if the arrow is pointed to the left (that is good) or to the right (that is bad).


If the valve is pointing in the correct direction then the water will continue to go to the radiators and push the air out in front of the water. This will continue to happen as long as the boiler pressure gauge is near 25 PSI. If the water pressure on the boiler gauge drops below 10 PSI then the water will stop coming out the blue purge valve. In order to keep purging the water and air, you will need to lift the auto feed tag up to let more water in the boiler. As long as the water pressure in the boiler is near 25 PSI on the gauge, you should get water to push the air out of zone #1. If the pressure on the gauge goes above 30 PSI the relief valve will discharge wter and make a mess on the floor, so try to keep the pressure below 28 but close to 25. If you do get the relief valve to discharge on to the floor, Don't worry... it is only water and it will dry up.


After you get the water to flow for 1 minute out of the hose, without air or bubbles flowing out of the hose, then you can place the auto feed tab down (back to the normal or automatic setting) and allow the feed valve to regulate the boiler pressure. Then you can close the blue valve. Then you can open booth red valves to see if the hot water will circulate.

Rodrigo

So the arrow is pointed to the left  I don’t here water come up this pipe at all could the value be bad

EdTheHeaterMan

That is going in the correct direction. If you follow my diagram, the water should go thru the radiators then back to the return... follow the light blue arrows. if it is not going thru the pipes and radiators then there is a blockage in the system somewhere. Is there any valves of tees in that pipe? if there is a Tee in one or both of the zones, then there will be hidden valves that might be closed.



I might have the pipes switched in my diagram. Maybe the water from that supply pipe is trying to come out the other purge station.