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Need help with Primary/Secondary Water Loops
josephny
Member Posts: 270
Several years ago I set up an IBC SFC-199 for DHW and a single zone under-floor hydronic heating.
I decided to add 5 additional zones upstairs and just built the system shown below.
I thought I had it all correct, but I can't get it to work. Using a Caleffi ZSR104 and a 103 (supply store did not have a 6 zone in stock) set up (I believe) as per the instruction manual, with an Ecobee on each zone, sure looks like the system is properly calling for heat.
But, I don't think there is any water flowing.
A thought that came up was whether I needed another pump somewhere on the secondary loop?
Can someone take a look at my design and tell me what's wrong?
Thank you!
I decided to add 5 additional zones upstairs and just built the system shown below.
I thought I had it all correct, but I can't get it to work. Using a Caleffi ZSR104 and a 103 (supply store did not have a 6 zone in stock) set up (I believe) as per the instruction manual, with an Ecobee on each zone, sure looks like the system is properly calling for heat.
But, I don't think there is any water flowing.
A thought that came up was whether I needed another pump somewhere on the secondary loop?
Can someone take a look at my design and tell me what's wrong?
Thank you!
0
Comments
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Check valves in all the pumps!
purge valves somewhere?
Is there a pump inside the IBC?
piping is correct
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
All valves checked (confirmed open)hot_rod said:Check valves in all the pumps!
purge valves somewhere?
Is there a pump inside the IBC?
piping is correct
Purge valves on each return line. Should I open them to release water and/or air?
Yes, IBC SFC-199 has internal primary loop pump.
Thank you for the piping confirmation.
I got the unit to fire up, but the heat does not circulate at all into the secondary loop. The primary loop hot side gets a little warm, but not like it is passing 160*F water through it's short copper pipes.
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Got it.
I was sort of hoping that air separator would take care of the initial big purge, but I see that was fantasy-thinking.
I thought the fill valve was an automatic device to bring the pressure up to a preset level? Do you mean mean the manual lever on top that I pull vertical to bring in more water should be left in the vertical position? Pressure would (I assume) rise to the house water pressure of mid-30's PSI. Is thank okay?
I did not use antifreeze initially and now am rethinking this decision. Can I simply open a return valve on one of the zones to remove existing pure water while pumping in antifreeze on the supply side?
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No need to lift the lever on the fill valve, it should be pre set to 12-15 psi. Fast fill lever is just to fill and purge the first time.
Why the glycol consideration? Messy, expensive, maintenance prone, and some efficiency loss. In some cases a larger circ is needed.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
I'm concerned about freezing. I have tons of sensors with alerts, but I am often far away from the location.
I thought it was cheap insurance.
Should I not use antifreeze despite 1200' of 3/4" pex running throughout the 3 story home carrying heating hot water?
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