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Triangle Tube parts warranty

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Finnman
Finnman Member Posts: 12
I am the home owner. Have a Triangle Tube PS110, installed 14 years ago. Radiant panels two floors and radiant slab in basement. Had issues with radiant in floor system causing low return temps affecting other areas originally thinking it was a control after talking with TT service. They indicated possible logic issue in control. Original module was rev 1. Had another control module rev6, purchased a few years ago as a backup. Was concerned with problems TT had with early modules.
Original problem with water temps was failed mixing valve which I replaced. Decided to also replace module just to make sure that was not part of the problem. This was the start of new issues, new module would not fire boiler on first sequence and started to show 02 codes and internal fault codes, replaced with original module and all issues disappeared. Now have a new module ($500+)which is worthless.
Now comes the part of trying to have TT replace a bad controller. Because it was a few years old, they refused, out of warranty period. Requested if possible to send in to reprogram, no response. Seems they could care less.
My point is, be aware if you purchase spare parts, there is a limited time warranty on them. If repair vendors stock parts for their inventory and they install them in your equipment the warranty coverage may be short dated.

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  • Finnman
    Finnman Member Posts: 12
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    Update on my control module issues, with TT not responding.
    After some investigation, found my display not being able to access parameter/info at times, thinking it was a control module issue. Found corrosion on back of display board, questioned to source of the corrosion and noticed a few water drops coming from the air inlet tube to the gas train. Outside air was cold and assume the air being sucked into the boiler caused the condensation.
    The water then worked it way down to a cabinet seam and down to the display over time.
    Just a FYI to others if your control fails look at the display for corrosion before another control is possibly damaged. I question if this is an isolated issue of if TT knows about this.

  • GGross
    GGross Member Posts: 1,065
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    Finnman said:

    Update on my control module issues, with TT not responding.
    After some investigation, found my display not being able to access parameter/info at times, thinking it was a control module issue. Found corrosion on back of display board, questioned to source of the corrosion and noticed a few water drops coming from the air inlet tube to the gas train. Outside air was cold and assume the air being sucked into the boiler caused the condensation.
    The water then worked it way down to a cabinet seam and down to the display over time.
    Just a FYI to others if your control fails look at the display for corrosion before another control is possibly damaged. I question if this is an isolated issue of if TT knows about this.

    Is there any sign in the cabinet of rusty looking areas, or the sound dampening foam on the inner cabinet looking melted or scorched?
  • Finnman
    Finnman Member Posts: 12
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    This is my second display failure. This picture shows the location and rust in cabinet above display.

  • GGross
    GGross Member Posts: 1,065
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    You may investigate the boilers exhaust/intake, if they are located near each other sometimes you will get the intake pulling the flue gas back in. I have seen this cause issues with electronics. usually there are some more prominent signs if this were happening, the little rusty bits shown wouldn't concern me much
    kcopp
  • Finnman
    Finnman Member Posts: 12
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    It is concentric vent, may need to separate. The volume of water is very small. Have read where recirculating causes ventri deterioration, mine still looks good.
    Seems odd two displays failed and corrosion is in same place. I see updated Prestige boiler control looks to be inside a case not exposed to internal environment.
    GGross
  • Finnman
    Finnman Member Posts: 12
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    Insulation looks good, a few areas where the glue failed and is loose now. The bottom has a few rust areas mostly directly under the air pipe. Most of the damage to bottom insulation was done by mice getting in through the vent pipe, installed a screen to prevent that.

  • dko
    dko Member Posts: 611
    edited January 12
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    What insulation are you talking about?

    I always recommend separate intake/exhaust at proper spacing. And especially having the intake terminate with at least a 45.

    The rat trap on the inside is just hilarious. I can see it could be cumbersome to try and make one around certain concentric vent terminals, but if you do separate intake/exhaust they make screen attachments/inserts for pvc/pp you can put on the outlet. Even if you don't change, I recommend preventing them from coming in in the first place..
  • Finnman
    Finnman Member Posts: 12
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    Most of the screens are made of 1/2 square material. The vermin are small moles and mice, which can get past that size. Found small dried up skeletons inside. Installed screen, problem solved..
    Main concern was chewing on wiring.
    Installed similar size screen around Inlet on concentric also. Used a shop vac exhaust to clean out the inlet, stuck the hose up the inlet in the boiler and blew it outside. Was amazed at amount material they brought in.
    dko
  • dko
    dko Member Posts: 611
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    Is your vent termination basically ground level or something?
  • Finnman
    Finnman Member Posts: 12
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    24 inches above grade. Rough block wall, they can climb up that easily.