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adding Tigerloop. Bypass plug for Cleancut pump?

Don_175
Don_175 Member Posts: 140
We are adding a Tigerloop system to our Beckett AFG oil burner (one overhead pipe). It was rumbling like crazy the other day. There was a lot of air in the pump. The pump is a Cleancut. The tech checked all connections and said many times it is the overhead line that causes issues. The bypass plug that the pump requires is a 1/16, I believe with an Allen slot. Would any generic plug work? I found one at HD but it is stainless. Thanks.

Comments

  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,460
    Doesn't the Tiger Loop come with a plug? It's been a long time since I installed one. I'm sure your tech should have one, and he can verify pump pressure and combustion is correct and make sure its operating safely. 
  • captainco
    captainco Member Posts: 799
    Dont all oil lines start out overhead?? or higher than the pump?
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    If the tech added a tiger loop, the tech should’ve put the bypass plug in. I wouldn’t use any one except the proper one.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,541
    captainco said:

    Dont all oil lines start out overhead?? or higher than the pump?

    Most oil lines in Philadelphia were buried in the basement concrete with no sleeve, when I started doing oil heat in the 1970s. Philadelphis had a law that prohibited outside above ground fuel oil tanks. Not until I moved to New Jersey did I discover the perils of frozen oil lines because more than 70% of the tanks WERE outside above ground.
    SuperTech said:

    Doesn't the Tiger Loop come with a plug? It's been a long time since I installed one. I'm sure your tech should have one, and he can verify pump pressure and combustion is correct and make sure its operating safely. 

    The bypass plug on a Suntec pump uses a standard pipe thread. The plugs come with the pump. Riello pump bypass is not a NPT size plugs and it comes installed in the pump and must be removed to use the pump on a single pipe fuel line (not recommended unless the bottom of the tank and all the fuel line is above the fuel pump). The Suntec J pumps use a 1/8" plug, the Webster and Suntec mini pumps use a 1/16" plug. Since tigerloop can not foresee what pump it will be used with, they do hot provide the bypass plug. You must supply your own plug if the one that was shipped with the pump is no longer on site. In a pinch I have used a NPT square head plug on a JK pump by using a hacksaw to create a screwdriver slot. I feel sorry for the guy that needed to remove that plug if it ever needed removal. But it was probably just tossed in the scrap pile with the old heater when it was replaced by a new gas heater.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Don_175
    Don_175 Member Posts: 140

    captainco said:

    Dont all oil lines start out overhead?? or higher than the pump?

    Most oil lines in Philadelphia were buried in the basement concrete with no sleeve, when I started doing oil heat in the 1970s. Philadelphis had a law that prohibited outside above ground fuel oil tanks. Not until I moved to New Jersey did I discover the perils of frozen oil lines because more than 70% of the tanks WERE outside above ground.
    SuperTech said:

    Doesn't the Tiger Loop come with a plug? It's been a long time since I installed one. I'm sure your tech should have one, and he can verify pump pressure and combustion is correct and make sure its operating safely. 

    The bypass plug on a Suntec pump uses a standard pipe thread. The plugs come with the pump. Riello pump bypass is not a NPT size plugs and it comes installed in the pump and must be removed to use the pump on a single pipe fuel line (not recommended unless the bottom of the tank and all the fuel line is above the fuel pump). The Suntec J pumps use a 1/8" plug, the Webster and Suntec mini pumps use a 1/16" plug. Since tigerloop can not foresee what pump it will be used with, they do hot provide the bypass plug. You must supply your own plug if the one that was shipped with the pump is no longer on site. In a pinch I have used a NPT square head plug on a JK pump by using a hacksaw to create a screwdriver slot. I feel sorry for the guy that needed to remove that plug if it ever needed removal. But it was probably just tossed in the scrap pile with the old heater when it was replaced by a new gas heater.

    Would the Cleancut Suntec pump for the Beckett AFG burner use the 1/8” plug?
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,541
    Don_175 said:


    Would the Cleancut Suntec pump for the Beckett AFG burner use the 1/8” plug?

    NO.

    1/16" pipe plug. rare item to find at the hardware store. You will want the allen wrench type plug. Best to get it from a supply house that sells oil burner parts.
    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Suntec-991362B-1-16-By-Pass-Plug-for-A-B-Mini-Pumps

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,541
    In my experience there are too many technicians that have never learned to make a proper flare on the end of a copper tube. There are plenty of YouTube videos that show the incorrect way to make a copper flare. A partially rolled over burr on the interior of a tube made by the cutting tool will cause the tubing to fail to make an airtight seal. Gravity does the rest.

    The siphon created by the overhead line has the heavier than air liquid fuel at the high point. The lighter that oil atmosphere leaks into the flare fitting and allows the oil to drop back into the fuel tank. The longer the off cycle, the more air is found in the overhead line. When the oil burner starts, that air may cause noisy operation until the air is purged. If enough air accumulates then there is a possibility that the fuel pressure will not be enough to force the fuel past the nozzle port. That is because the air will compress when it reaches the pressure regulator at the nozze port of the fuel pump. This results in a lockout by the primary control safety.

    To fix this you need to get a technician with an expensive flaring tool that knows how to use it to make all the flare connections over, properly. In a perfect world, that would be easy to do. mist technicians that work on oil burners have the inexpensive flaring tool and don't know how to properly prep the end of the tube for an air tight seal. In that case the tiger loop gets them out of that jam of incompetence.

    The other fix to to have the fuel line lower than the bottom of the tank, so any leak will present as a wet spot that is much easier to locate and repair. Incompetence will be a wet leak in that case.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    LRCCBJ
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,598
    @Don_175

    If the suction leak is not found you may still have issues.

    You need a 1/16 pipe plug . They come with the oil pumps. Your technician probably has plenty of them as no one installs two pipe any more unless they have a Tiger Loop.

    What you really need to do is get your technician back there and call his service manager.

    You stated in your other post that the rumbling got worse after the service last October. So, in October they made the suction leak worse which is compounded by the fact that you oil level is down to 1/4 of a tank.....more vacuum ...more air leak. You will find you have fewer issues with a full tank.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,541

    @Don_175

    If the suction leak is not found you may still have issues.

    You need a 1/16 pipe plug . They come with the oil pumps. Your technician probably has plenty of them as no one installs two pipe any more unless they have a Tiger Loop.

    What you really need to do is get your technician back there and call his service manager.

    You stated in your other post that the rumbling got worse after the service last October. So, in October they made the suction leak worse which is compounded by the fact that you oil level is down to 1/4 of a tank.....more vacuum ...more air leak. You will find you have fewer issues with a full tank.

    I agree with this. call the professional and get your money's worth

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Don_175
    Don_175 Member Posts: 140
    Thanks for the advice, guys. He told me to keep an eye on it and to call if it recurs. I will update you.