Replace standing pilot w/electronic on Miller Furnace

josephny

I have a CMF80-PG-SP-N burner on a Miller-Nordyne furnace that has a piezo-electric (click and hold) pilot ignitor.

I've had this furnace fail three times in the past 3 months because of the piezo-electric pilot starting method: Once when LP tank ran dry, another when gas was shut off for work on the lines, and another when a 2nd LP tank was delivered.

Can someone please ID for me what parts I would need to change to have this use an electronic ignition/firing?

I think it's the gas valve and module, but that's as far as I know. I see there is an HSI Ignition Control Part 626421, but I don't know if that is correct.

Now, I understand a standing pilot has advantages. Is there a system that maintains a standing pilot, but that would ignite the standing pilot electronically in case it goes out?

Thank you.

EdTheHeaterMan

I can think of 2 systems. Be right back with specifications. Is this a DIY or is it going to be professionally installed?

And a standing pilot burner.... How old is your system? Is it worth spending money on it?

mattmia2

Note that the auto re-lighter won't help you with a pilot that went out because the gas was shut off. It won't reset the safety valve, it will just light a pilot that blew out while the thermocouple is still hot.

SuperTech

Maybe a Honeywell/Residio Y8610U? I've used that kit on boilers and older furnaces but I don't know if it would be compatible with a Miller mobile home furnace 

EdTheHeaterMan

First design: This might be a DIY system you could do your self. But you must know if you have a 24 volt gas valve. or how to connect it to 120V as a separate control system. You must not interrupt any of the safety control system of your existing gas valve. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Robertshaw-785-001-24-120-VAC-Automatic-Pilot-Relight-Kit. If you are not familiar with how the safety control system works, then you should call a Professional.

This system will still need manual resetting of the gas valve if the pilot is off for more that 30 seconds or so. But the sparking is always there if ther is no pilot, making relighting easier.

EdTheHeaterMan

This kit will do exactly what you want but I recommend professional installation. And with retail markup and labor, you may be about 1/2 way to a new furnace. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Intermittent-Pilot-Retrofit-Kit/dp/B06X9WG8T5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=326H2L6VAZ1HT&keywords=Y8610U4001&qid=1701894622&s=hi&sprefix=y8610u4001,tools,106&sr=1-2

josephny

Wow, thank you guys so much!

I absolutely will make sure that the safety controls remain in place.

Is this the same as the Amazon version:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-Y8610U4001-Intermittent-Pilot-Control-Conversion-Kit?utm_source=bingad&utm_medium=sku&msclkid=9c2ea8be7b141a133c1dcdce91d11258

Do I understand correctly that if, for example, the pilot light is out this will relight it until the timeouts/lockouts? Will a simple power-cycle to the furnace reset the timeout/lockout?

But, you bring up a good point about the economics of it. Maybe I'll put this project on the back burner and consider a new boiler before next Winter.

I need to consider whether including AC should be done if I'm replacing the furnace.



Will the "Honeywell Intermittent Pilot Retrofit Kit - Color - Y8610U4001/U Y8610U-c8" light the pilot

SuperTech

That should do everything you want it to do. But it should be professionally installed, especially for use with LP. A manometer is needed to set the gas pressure pressure to the burner and a digital combustion analyzer is needed to make sure the equipment is operating safely. 

josephny

Resurrecting this thread because after 6 weeks of cold, I realize that the blower motor is pretty noisy.

Now, replacing both the ignitor and the blower motor definitely does not make economic sense (right?).

Is there a relatively easy, sort of drop-in replacement for this furnace?

I'd like to continue to use LP, and I'd really like to add AC.

Thank you!

EBEBRATT-Ed

@josephny

They probably make the same or similar model furnace. Post your location or look for a dealer who sells Miller/nordyne

EdTheHeaterMan

There is a standard specification for manufactured housing furnaces. They all fit the same opening. They all have no return duct, but a front door with a filter that must be places in the hallway or utility room with a louver door connecting to the living space. that is to allow the air from the entire building the return to that front door return opening.

It is important to note that by code, the combustion air and the return air for a fossil fuel furnace can not be in the same room. This means the combustion air comes from below the floor of the home or from a pipe in pipe concentric intake exhaust Roof Jack (short chimney) of some type.

The roof jacks are not always in the same exact location form one brand to another, so matching the model of the old furnace with the model of the new furnace may allow you to use the same Roof Jack in some cases.

I also offered a second option that left the closet where the furnace was located, EMPTY. Home owners loved this option because there was a new space to install shelving for storage or a new hallway closet. Select the proper size based on climate and if you are single wide or double wide.
You might look into a single package unit where the furnace and the air conditioner sits on the lawn next to the home home and you connect ductwork to the package unit under the manufactured home to the home ductwork.
Here is an illustration on a double wide duct system where the furnace is removed and the package unit is installed on the far side of the home