Oil Tank Valve Fittings from bottom?

HandyFS

What is a common 275 steel tank connection coming out of the oil tank from the bottom? My current tank is drawing from the top, but I'd like to reconfigure the new tank back to drawing from the bottom.

What is common coming out of the bottom of the tank? Fireomatic 1/2 to 3/8 valve, then to a check valve, before connecting to the oil line? Was considering adding a filter after the shut off valve as well.

We may keep this drawing from the top temporarily, so I'd like to make sure we get the valve installed into the bottom of the tank now so we can utilize it later without needing to empty the tank again. What Fireomatic is recommended specifically? 90 degree?

At the burner there is a Fireomatic valve and shut off, but I'd like to have one at the oil tank as well.

Any tips appreciated.

STEVEusaPA

Firomatic angle tank valve.

EdTheHeaterMan

I grew up and learned oil heat in Philadelphia where there are almost no outside above ground oil tanks. When I moved to South Jersey to find the inside basement tank was a rare occurrence, I stopped using bottom tank valves on the outside above ground tanks. They can trap condensation by design and cause a frozen fuel line resulting in a no heat call.


So I would like to know where your new tank is located before I recommend the bottom tank valve with a filter attached to the valve.

HandyFS

STEVEusaPA said:

Firomatic angle tank valve.

Thanks for confirming. Anything ideal after that? I've seen people sometimes put a filter, then a one way check valve. Is that common? Or some type of hard shut off gate style valve?

I've seen all sorts of different combinations over the years so I'm just curious what's the most common.

EdTheHeaterMan

Check valve is a bad idea but if the oil tank is above the burner, I might recommend an oil safety valve. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Suntec-PRV-38-3-8-Oil-Safety-Valve-9944000-p?_br_psugg_q=oil+safety+valve. they should always be after the filter.

HandyFS

EdTheHeaterMan said:

I grew up and learned oil heat in Philadelphia where there are almost no outside above ground oil tanks. When I moved to South Jersey to find the inside basement tank was a rare occurrence, I stopped using bottom tank valves on the outside above ground tanks. They can trap condensation by design and cause a frozen fuel line resulting in a no heat call.


So I would like to know where your new tank is located before I recommend the bottom tank valve with a filter attached to the valve.

Tank will be installed in the basement, so should be ok on freezing and condensation. I've heard over the years its better to draw from the bottom of the tank so you can burn off/get out the water and condensation that collects over time.

EdTheHeaterMan

You are so right. Basement tank with the tank pitched 1/4" per foot towards the valve to let the condensation migrate to the valve is the best way to control tank bottom deposits. The water at the bottom is where that sludge comes from. There is actually a microbe that needs the water and feeds on the fuel. That microbe lives reproduces and dies inside the tank and after 20+ years there can be quite a lot of dead microbes there. Then add to that the chance that someone might want to save $$$ and take left over oil from a very old tank and put that crap in their tank, only to find that the cost of "plugged nozzle" service calls more that exceeds the savings. But you can't fix stupid.

Keep your new tank in good shape with quality oil from a reputable supplier. Use an additive to reduce tank bottom deposits (some fuel dealers already include it in their oil) and replace the filter at the tank bottom outlet annually. That will yield years of trouble free oil burner operation.

HandyFS

EdTheHeaterMan said:

You are so right. Basement tank with the tank pitched 1/4" per foot towards the valve to let the condensation migrate to the valve is the best way to control tank bottom deposits. The water at the bottom is where that sludge comes from. There is actually a microbe that needs the water and feeds on the fuel. That microbe lives reproduces and dies inside the tank and after 20+ years there can be quite a lot of dead microbes there. Then add to that the chance that someone might want to save $$$ and take left over oil from a very old tank and put that crap in their tank, only to find that the cost of "plugged nozzle" service calls more that exceeds the savings. But you can't fix stupid.

Keep your new tank in good shape with quality oil from a reputable supplier. Use an additive to reduce tank bottom deposits (some fuel dealers already include it in their oil) and replace the filter at the tank bottom outlet annually. That will yield years of trouble free oil burner operation.

Great feedback, thanks for all the details. Definitely need to keep those microbes away then, I'll be practicing annual maintenance with additives to burn them off, and possibly a manual drain off at the filter to see if any water comes out.

For thread sealant, Blue Monster thread sealant ideal? I've heard some say sealant and gas compatible tape, others just sealant. I know sealants can be quite a debatable topic.

For filter, I've always had the standard style filters (General Aire 1A-25) but I'm starting to see a lot of the micro filters like the Westwood F100 style screw on type particulate filters. Any reason to go with something like that, or are the old style 1A-25's fine?

EdTheHeaterMan

Fuel pump manufacturers will void the warranty if they find pieces of teflon on a defective fuel pump. I never use tape on fuel oil lines, Only pipe dope. RectorSeal #5 has never failed me but Blue Monster is just fine.


Oil refining is different from the old days. I like the spin on filter now.

HandyFS

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Fuel pump manufacturers will void the warranty if they find pieces of teflon on a defective fuel pump. I never use tape on fuel oil lines, Only pipe dope. RectorSeal #5 has never failed me but Blue Monster is just fine.


Oil refining is different from the old days. I like the spin on filter now.

Sealant only it is, and a spin on filter will be in my future. Thanks again Ed!