Taco 219 swetchek

iizbor3d

I have these taco flow check on all 3 zones that seem to have never been replaced. The top seems to be tightened all the way down, assuming fully closed. If I slightly try to open them water starts to come out. Is there a possibility they impede flow and are overworking my circulators? Can they be removed since the circulators have flow checks? 

EBEBRATT-Ed

When they are screwed down they act as a flow check which is a weighted check valve. They let water through only if the circulator is running. Originally used on boiler that had a tankless water heater to not allow flow when running for DHW or on boiler with multiple circulators and multiple zones.

If you want to just open them and leave them in place try that.

iizbor3d

Unfortunately the slightest turn to open causes them to leak from the top. I'm sure whatever gasket is there has been completely deteriorated. I guess they should be replaced or are the circulator flow checks enough to prevent ghost heating? 

hot_rod

The checks in the circs should be adequate

iizbor3d

Great thank you! 

Joe Mattiello

Flow check in circulator is much better choice for one directional valve. Less pressure drop, and better performance for your pump. 

Perhaps you can take the check out, and replace with a pipe plug. 

iizbor3d

Joe Mattiello said:

Flow check in circulator is much better choice for one directional valve. Less pressure drop, and better performance for your pump. 

Perhaps you can take the check out, and replace with a pipe plug. 

I'll just cut the flow check out and solder on copper with couplings in that case. Maybe I'll do 1 zone first to verify there's no ghost heating before I do the other 2.

EdTheHeaterMan

I was going to mention Ghost Flow. That may happen on the zone closest to the boiler. Since they are not blocked, and the only moving part is still moving, I would leave well enough alone. But if you do decide to try one of the zones. Try the one with the longest horizontal run before it turns up to the first radiator.

By the Way, that leak is from a packing nut. You can reduce the pressure on the boiler so little or no water leaks then add some packing under that nut. That way you can back the valve to full open, then tighten the packing nut to stop the leak. once the valves are open and you pressure the system, you can test for ghost flow without removing them.

See the diagram here https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1351084254823/85085_PROD_FILE.pdf

tim smith

We still see ghost flow sometimes. It's hit and miss even with integral checks on pumps. We still use the current flo checks from Taco on many jobs.
Tim

iizbor3d

EdTheHeaterMan said:

I was going to mention Ghost Flow. That may happen on the zone closest to the boiler. Since they are not blocked, and the only moving part is still moving, I would leave well enough alone. But if you do decide to try one of the zones. Try the one with the longest horizontal run before it turns up to the first radiator. By the Way, that leak is from a packing nut. You can reduce the pressure on the boiler so little or no water leaks then add some packing under that nut. That way you can back the valve to full open, then tighten the packing nut to stop the leak. once the valves are open and you pressure the system, you can test for ghost flow without removing them. See the diagram here https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1351084254823/85085_PROD_FILE.pdf

I'm not 100% sure I'll be able to get the packing nut off since these were flooded by hurricane Sandy and I'm confident the plumbers never replaced these. They're so corroded one of the checks I couldn't even turn the cap on top. But I'll give it a shot thank you! 

hot_rod

If you do decide to replace them, consider a hydronic spring check
Flo checks add a lot of restriction to a circuit, equal to about 140’ of tube