Veissman 100-W B1KE 120 - Help with knowledge

Just_me

Hi All,
Hope everyone is having a great Veteran’s Day and thankful for all those who serve/d.

We recently had a Veissman 100-W B1KE 120 installed, no accessories other than what is in the box. We used to have a vintage American Standard boiler that came with the house. Fear motivation – that they couldn’t get parts caused us to upgrade. Kicking ourselves now of course 😊for changing out our trusty old model.

Questioning if this is the right systems for our application/home or if there are any adjustments that can be made to help us, or do we ask to change it out to something more suitable?

The currently concerning things:
1,Hot water to reach faucet takes too long at times 60-90 seconds (Wasting water).

2.Heat -We have 2 zones – in our home, approx. 1600 sf ( 2 levels = 800 sf per floor).
A.Lower Level Baseboards– fin type (8) located in our Lower-level basement) living area at best barely feel Luke warm heat at 68 degrees, we turn up the thermostats to 72 or more to get some heat out. We used to like having the heat rise so we could lower our thermostat on the upper level.

* Concerned that I read that the Veissman 100-W has limitations with Fin type baseboards. Is that still true or are there adjustments to the water temp that could improve – this zone?

B.The main floor - Cast Iron 2 Radiators, and 5 cast iron baseboards, again we must set the thermostat to 72 to get 70 in our living area changes. Still feels drafty, we know we don’t have great insulation, however our last boiler provided hot radiators, which heated up our walls and furnishings, unlike this new Combi unit.

Any suggestions? We tried to ask a few questions and were told the operation manual is above the unit, and “oh yeah” your radiators won’t get as hot as they used too…. Especially when it’s cool out vs cold out due to the temperature outside.

At the end of the day, do you think we are going to have any savings with running the thermostats at 72, wasting water, and will this unit burn out quicker?

So any experience, education and suggestions are appreciated.

Donna

heathead

Ok so you need to adjust the outdoor reset on the boiler. That bases the water temperature for the heating zones based upon the current outdoor temperature. This can take some time to dial in. Look on youtube for Viessmann setup and setting of a heating curve. You contractor should adjust this up closer, but you may need to do some adjusting on your own to get it optimized. This can take some time to dial in. How far are you hot water faucets from your boiler.

Paul Pollets

The #100 model was designed for single zone systems. It needs a Low Loss Header if flow rates exceed 10gpm or multiple zones are being used, and is limited to one temperature, although a 3 way mixing valve can be used to get a lower zone temp. The Vitodens 200 is used when multiple zone temps are desired. The indirect DHW tank may need a DHW Recirc pump to supply fixtures with fast delivery of HW.

Just_me

Thank you @heathead , I’ll definitely look into this.  The faucets are approx 35’- 38’ across the basement ceiling. 
 @Paul Pollets they did include a low loss header, (black vertical box- looks like styrofoam).  New- After using the unit 2 days, when we turn up thermostat on lower level the Acid Condensation spits some Condensation onto the floor, I put a container under it for when the pump tries to eject the condensation.

Appreciate the tips, a new learning curve, I’ll call our service provider to see if they can help implement these good ideas :-)

Paul Pollets

Nice looking job! I would insulate the piping with 3/4" wall neoprene and have it hold it's heat

GGross

1: long wait times to fixtures is why I changed out my tankless. Not a brand specific thing, and while you may find ways to mitigate this, it will always be somewhat present, I prefer a tank

2: if using outdoor reset you can adjust the heating curve, it is pretty simple, no issues with baseboard on this model. tap the 3 lines button, go to settings, select heating curve, select slope. For baseboard they recommend a slope between 1.6 and 2.0, if you can go lower that is better for fuel usage.

See this quick start guide for more info on curve (page 7 talks about the curve)
https://www.viessmann-us.com/content/dam/public-brands/ca/pdfs/doc/b1he/vitodens_100-b1he_qsg.pdf/_jcr_content/renditions/original./vitodens_100-b1he_qsg.pdf

It's a nice install if I were to nitpick one thing I would have probably recommended the expansion tank be installed on the boiler side of the LLH piped on the return pipe to the boiler just after the low loss header.

Just_me

Thanks @GGross , appreciate you sharing :-).
I'll look at the slope settings, thank you for making it so easy to understand too!!!!

Curious on the nitpick idea, curious of what that does overall, as a point of learning... " would have probably recommended the expansion tank be installed on the boiler side of the LLH piped on the return pipe to the boiler just after the low loss header. "

Just_me

I asked about the 60-90 second hot water delay, and the suggested fix was the following, I'm waiting for an estimate, I'll definitely add pipe insulation in the interim. Mentioned items so far: Bronze circulator, check valve, piping, fittings and necessary valves.... I'm trying to determine the ROI on water savings,etc. This is such a detailed project, LOL.... trying to do our part in lowering the carbon footprint! Thank you all!!!