Unscrewing pipes…..

Onepipe

I searched the old posts and can’t find anything on this so I thought I would ask. I am working on a 100 year old steam system and need to re pipe a few areas. The system has cast fittings and as can be assumed they are fighting me each step of the way with spinning them off. I was taught to tap the fitting with a backer hammer the peen the threads, heat, oil, and some times even uses two pipe wrenches side by side so I don’t crush the pipe. Not sure if there is a better way but thought I would ask if there was some secret trick that I was in aware of as I have some 2 1/2” and 3” in my near future that I have to spin off. Any tips are appreciated. 

Mad Dog_2

Forget spinning them off. Cast Iron Steam Fittings will crack. A small sledge & Heavy lump hammer will do it.  Put big sledge on back side of Fitting and pound front with lump.  Good safety goggles orba Full Face shield if your worried about keeping your face Purdy. I stopped worrying about that many moons 🌙 ago...just my eyes...5 or 6 good whacks with crack em then you can spin them off.  Mad Dog 🐕 

Larry Weingarten

Hi, One trick is to take a torch and heat up the fitting to a dark red. Try not to burn down the building Let the fitting cool some. Put a little oil into the threads. Now with two wrenches, it should be easier to start it turning. I've found the heat really softens up the rust joint.

Yours, Larry

Mad Dog_2

Agree Larry, I just don't know if he's at that level.  Torch work, Cherry 🍒 Red Iron; pipe wrenches, wood joists is not for a DIY.  Mad Dog 🐕 

EBEBRATT-Ed

I don't like pounding with hammers anymore, but I do if the fitting is in a place where I can get at it. Sometimes they are not.

I like to cut the fitting with a sawzall or grinder with a cutting disk. Put an old screwdriver in the slot and wack it a few times. Another cut on the opposite side from the first helps it open up as well. Don't cut the threads you don't have to go all the way down.

Cutting first makes them crack real quick with a hammer if you go that route.

STEAM DOCTOR

Sawzall method is just about all I do these days. Diabalo blades. Hammer and chisel. Will use the grinder is sawzall has trouble accessing. Protect eyes and ears.

Onepipe

Sounds like cracking the fittings is the way to go. Thanks for the on-site. I can get to most of the fitting I have to work with easy enough to where I can slit them first with an angle grinder. Thanks for the info.

Mad Dog_2

Googles & atleast an N 95 Mask so you don't suck the Carbon dust...Mad Dog 🐕 

Intplm.

Use of a grinding wheel on the kneck of a fitting in a few places, on that kneck without going too deep
will help to weaken the fitting before you use the two-hammer method.
The best way is with the hammers as explained above. Dont even bother to waste your time trying to unscrew any of them. It's just a big P.I.A.

Intplm.

@Onepipe Are you sure they are BCI and not malleable?

ChrisJ

Intplm. said:

Use of a grinding wheel on the kneck of a fitting in a few places, on that kneck without going too deep
will help to weaken the fitting before you use the two-hammer method.
The best way is with the hammers as explained above. Dont even bother to waste your time trying to unscrew any of them. It's just a big P.I.A.

I've used a sawzall, but my favorite way so far was using a grinder and then splitting the fitting with a cold chisel.

It just seemed to be the fastest, easiest.

Onepipe

Oh ya they are cast fittings and not malleable. Thanks for the info and I’m looking forward to time and effort saved. 

Gordo

@Onepipe : I hope this may be helpful

https://youtu.be/toXWEPW6ft4

offdutytech

I use a porta band if I have the room to make a relief cut (basically a pie shape) and some PB blaster or Kroil and let if soak for a few min. Cape chisel to start spinning it and can usually get it to spin with a few pipe wrenches. Slow and steady gets it done. Sawzall with a diablo thick metal blade if you don't have a porta band or don't have the room

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Gordo video is spot on and is the best way.

Pounding with hammers may cause damage in other locations.

If you do use 2 hammers use a big hammer for a backup and a small hammer to hit with. You need to keep the backup tight against the fitting.

I have seen idiots pound away with one hammer with the pipe bouncing and doing no good


To add to @Gordo video, making another slice in the opposite side of the fitting lets the fitting open up and crack on the opposite side.

The cut on the opposite side doesn't need to be very deep 3/4 of the way is enough. You just need to take the strength out of the fitting.

When you pound the screwdriver or chisel in the crack the slit on the opposite side gives the metal "some place to go"

Mad Dog_2

You also don't wanna ground & pound the fittings when you have Friable ACM on the pipe...2 feet away...Two mini sledges is the  Neanderthal/Caveman way...but it work!!  Ha ha 😂 🤣 😆 😄.  Use it sparingly.  Mad Dog 🐕 

Intplm.

I had a new apprentice crack a BCI fitting with ease recently. And he cracked it perfectly at the seem on a two-inch ninety. Never saw a perfectly cracked fitting like that before.

Onepipe

Thanks for all the info. Video was great. I was way ahead cutting the fittings and buying new. Job turned out great. 

Pumpguy

Okay, now does anyone have tricks how to remove a rusted pipe from an item you need to save and reuse; pump, tank, steam trap, separator, etc.?

ChrisJ

Pumpguy said:

Okay, now does anyone have tricks how to remove a rusted pipe from an item you need to save and reuse; pump, tank, steam trap, separator, etc.?

Cut the pipe off near the fitting.
Then cut slightly into the pipe but not into the threads and using a cold chisel cave the pipe in by where you tried to cut and fold it in so it basically falls out of the fitting.

That's how I did my two steam mains.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@pump guy

Cutting it out is the best option. If it is hot water heat you can sometimes unwrench them. Steam rarely.

Best bet is to cut the pipe off with about 3/8" sticking out of the fitting. The get a sawzall inside (I like the Milwaukee Hackzall for this smaller and lighter). And then depending on the pipe size 1 1/4 and up usually 1 cut will do cut part way through trying to cut as deep as possible without hitting the threads then use a cape chisel to collapse the pipe inward.

On smaller pipe you usually have to make more than one cut and chip the piece out between the two cuts as smaller diameter does not collapse as easily.

Some swear by penetrating oil but I don't bother with that.

If you cutting a steel pipe out of CI or brass a cutting torch works as well if you not fighting anything flammable

It's like anything else it seems impossible at first but after you do a few it's no big deal unless access is limited then it becomes an issue.