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Purging Air from radiator - are these the valves I use?

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Gentlemen, first big thanks for all the posts that helped me find the big problem, pressure reduction valve, and get it fixed. But now of course I've got air all over the place. I have these bleed valves but not sure if those are shutoff valves below them? They don't want to turn easily and I'm afraid of breaking something. Any suggestions? More Big Thanks in Advance!

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  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    Air will rise up to the highest points of the system. This would usually be the radiators.

    Do you have cast iron rad or baseboard convectors?

    If you first check that you have 12-15 PSI in the system, then to to the heat emitters and open the air vents on them.

    You may have to turn your tstats up to open the zone valves to allow the fill water to rise up to the upper levels.

    If baseboard, there should be an air vent valve under the end plate, usually only one end.

    If CI there would be an air vent on one end.

    Post pictures if you can.
  • TomDIYBomb
    TomDIYBomb Member Posts: 6
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    Thanks - I've got baseboards, not one bleed valve on any of them. I'm guessing the bleed valves in the pic replaces what would be on the baseboard radiators. But being so small and so low (basement) on the return run, I don't see how the air could get forced down to the bleed valve. Does that setup look familiar?
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    Baseboard air vents are not visible from the outside. If you remove the end caps, sometimes not attached to the heater itself, you might see them.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,246
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    I'm guessing those are some sort of isolation valve based on the shape. Might be a Muller logo on the side?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,607
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    Not sure what kind of valves those are or what the do. The drain has to be upstream of the shut off or balancing valve
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,246
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    If you are up for an adventure, you could hook a garden hose to the system, carefully keep pressure below 30 psi, and blast the air out with a high flow rate.

    The location of the circ is hampering air removal on its own. But if it has worked in the past..

    Those unknown valves would be the only isolation valves I see in the pics. They all look like they have leaked or seeped in the past.

    If you get tom major surgery, a valve like this Webstone in every line is the modern purge option. Get rid of the coin vent and those brass mystery devices.

    The valve near the zone valve is a flow check, it should be screwed down, clockwise, to work properly. It looks like another leak potential if you start screwing with it.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • TomDIYBomb
    TomDIYBomb Member Posts: 6
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    Thanks for the input. Definitely no bleeds on the radiators. I've been purging thru the one spigot you can see in a pic, on the left with the hose hanging off. Figure if other zones are closed the air has to go back up thru that return run. Many buckets! Getting air out but much to go. Heated it up a bit for pressure and to get the circulator pump moving. New auto-purge on the air scoop singing alot also! Previous owners saved alot of $$ on valves ;-)) Thanks again
  • TomDIYBomb
    TomDIYBomb Member Posts: 6
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    hot_rod said:

    If you are up for an adventure, you could hook a garden hose to the system, carefully keep pressure below 30 psi, and blast the air out with a high flow rate.

    The location of the circ is hampering air removal on its own. But if it has worked in the past..

    Those unknown valves would be the only isolation valves I see in the pics. They all look like they have leaked or seeped in the past.

    If you get tom major surgery, a valve like this Webstone in every line is the modern purge option. Get rid of the coin vent and those brass mystery devices.

    The valve near the zone valve is a flow check, it should be screwed down, clockwise, to work properly. It looks like another leak potential if you start screwing with it.

    Our messages crossed here... not touching the flow checks, searched what those were. If our subject "valves" are indeed valves, I can't move 'em anyway. But you mention the circ pump in the way - yes, but that makes me think if I leave it off and cold it has isolated the returns from the boiler. Then I open the PRV (keeping under 30 psi) Thanks Bob
  • TomDIYBomb
    TomDIYBomb Member Posts: 6
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    Enough for tonight tho - will pick it up manana and be ready for that 20 degrees!
  • leonz
    leonz Member Posts: 1,154
    edited October 2023
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    Turn the thermostat way up to run the circulator for a couple of hours and the air will come out and your house will be warm.



    mattmia2JUGHNE
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    Do the 4 mystery valves have a screwdriver slot in the center?

    If so then if that is rotated 90 degrees that would isolate that zone.
    If the packing nut (about the size of a quarter) is loosened then the screw might rotate.

    The intent may have been to isolate each zone with those and power purge thru the small air bleed vent above them.....perhaps a slow process.
    hot_rod
  • TomDIYBomb
    TomDIYBomb Member Posts: 6
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    JUGHNE said:

    Do the 4 mystery valves have a screwdriver slot in the center?

    If so then if that is rotated 90 degrees that would isolate that zone.
    If the packing nut (about the size of a quarter) is loosened then the screw might rotate.

    The intent may have been to isolate each zone with those and power purge thru the small air bleed vent above them.....perhaps a slow process.

    Agreed! I bet that's the function, but they feel seized up so I didn't want to push my luck. I power purged each zone and that did the trick. Just lots of water used. I appreciate all the input ! Thanks!!!