Install Manual for Dunkirk 1352 Steam Boiler - Circa 1970 ?

Nativebostonian

Hoping to find a PDF or equivalent type copy for Dunkirk1352 oil fired steam boiler.
Looking to make sure I use the proper well for a "B" aquastat to
control hot water temp for basement hydronic wall heater.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Aquastat wells are pretty much standard sizes. You can buy them with either 1/2" threads or 3/4" threads.

I assume your using a Honeywell aqustat.

If you are using the control to start the boiler when you need heat you need a control that breaks on a temperature rise Like a Honeywell L4006A 2007.

If your putting a control on your hot water loop to start the circulator when the water is hot use a L6006c1018. It's a strap on that needs no well.

To answer your question Dunkirk does not make special wells for their boilers so a manual does you no good. Depending on where you mount the aquastat in the boiler a standard well should fit

Nativebostonian

Ed,
Thanks for the info = Light dawned on marblehead. I'm also in process of installing a Bradford White 50 gallon hybrid hot water heater to replace the old pig domestic hot water heater coil in the Dunkirk - circa 1970 boiler. The existing well with honeywell L4006A that controlled the fire & domestic water temp is in the right spot and will re-purpose & wire it in series with terminal 5&6 on new Taco SR501- 1 zone relay driven by basm't playroom thermostat. This will maintain the right hot water temp for the hydronic wall htr in basement small finished playroom and keep the steam at bay if the upstairs thermostat for house isn't calling for heat. I installed it last night,set aquastat at 180 degrees. Its working well = killing the oil burner fire. Burner cycled back on about 5 minutes later to maintain hot water for the wall htr. Thermostat was satisfied within 15 minutes, Taco relay kick off and killed fire and new circ for wall htr. See attached pics.

Big Ed_4

You should have used the unused coil for the heating loop...

For your set up get red of that air vent in the convector...

Also add a mixing valve ,you need it to prevent steam breaking in that condensate loop .

The correct water level is 1/3 high . You may suck air and steam when the circulator kick in with your supply..

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Nativebostonian

it looks like you're pumping into or out of one of the gauge glass tapping's. I would not do that it will probably give you a false water line when the circulator is running. Looks like you could use the tapping below the aquastat. If the air vent on the coil is below the boiler water line I would remove it.

I don't see any need for a mixing valve.

Nativebostonian

Gents,
Thanks for the advise. I turned up the 1st floor thermostat for (steam) heat this morning as well as the basement hydronic wall heater and it did give me a false water line with the circ running. I will re-pipe and use the unused domestic hot water coil to feed the the hydronic wall heater. The air vent coil on the wall heater is 3 inches below the water line. I will remove. Can't thank you guys enough for you expertise and and keen eyesight. Brian C.

HVACNUT

Nativebostonian said:

Gents, Thanks for the advise. I turned up the 1st floor thermostat for (steam) heat this morning as well as the basement hydronic wall heater and it did give me a false water line with the circ running. I will re-pipe and use the unused domestic hot water coil to feed the the hydronic wall heater. The air vent coil on the wall heater is 3 inches below the water line. I will remove. Can't thank you guys enough for you expertise and and keen eyesight. Brian C.

If you're now going to use the tankless coil, it needs to be piped as a 1 zone hydronic boiler, complete with PRV, extrol tank, air eliminator, 30 psi relief valve. It is the best way especially now no chance of clogging the HX in the wall heater from sediment. 
Also recommend isolation valves on both sides of the circulator.