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Air in line

rickster05
rickster05 Member Posts: 39
What’s the easiest way to remove air from new boiler install.  Started it yesterday and the return line never really got hot… I think because I allowed the circulators to run on call! Spirovent pissed air off and on.

Wish my grandfather was alive so he could tell me what to do as before; I just forget what he said… Looking forward to ready the reply’s.
Tarm Solo Plus wood boiler with 600 gal storage tank using repurposed cast iron radiators.

Comments

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,282
    Can you post some pics? It's easier if we can see how it's piped.
    Why didn't the installer purge and test the system before they left?
    Intplm.
  • rickster05
    rickster05 Member Posts: 39
    Here’s what the install looks like.  The return is elevated above the wood boiler return by about 6in.  Taco circulators are pulling, zone circulators are pushing.  Single ZV hooked up to Taco SR506 relay.
    Tarm Solo Plus wood boiler with 600 gal storage tank using repurposed cast iron radiators.
  • leonz
    leonz Member Posts: 1,337
    You do not have a barometric damper in your flue pipe THAT IS NOT GOOD, you need to have a barometric damper to reduce the amount of wood you use as the fire box will continue to pull air into the fire box even when the aquastat is satisfied.

    I like how they installed your dump zone on the block wall, it will keep the boiler from overheating quickly.

    NOW about purging your wood boiler of air;

    You can either let the wood boiler run wide open with the ash pit door open to heat the water in all the zones at the same time or open the purging fitting to let air escape while feeding cold water into the boiler ONLY if the fire is out to push air out of the system.
    GroundUp
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,819
    I think both vents are way too close to the wood unless they are some sort of insulated vent system but from their size I don't think they are.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,224
    Some manual purge valves would help. I don’t see enough of the piping

    I have the name of high temperature stainless barometric damper’s specifically for solid fuel use

    let me look around
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • rickster05
    rickster05 Member Posts: 39
    Comments are great but I believe there’s some confusion here.  I recently installed the DV propane boiler which is the new add on that I’m having difficulty purging the air out of the line.  The wood boiler is meant to run wide open at all times allowing for a maximum amount of heat generation to satisfy whichever zones are calling for heat.  Once the zones are satisfied the ZV closes and all additional heat generated goes to charging the 600+ gallon storage tank for domestic hot water as well as supplying heat to the zones in the absence of the wood boiler being fired.
    Tarm Solo Plus wood boiler with 600 gal storage tank using repurposed cast iron radiators.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,224
    If we could see more of the piping, how and where the new boiler ties in. Where is the expansion tank? Looks like you are pumping in to the PV boiler, that can hinder air removal depending to the expansion tank location.

    The operating position of the mix valves could be why you are not getting enough flow thru the boiler

    If the Spiro if venting it must be pulling air out.

    Sometimes bumping fill pressure up helps with initial air removal. Bump it to 25 psi for an hour.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • rickster05
    rickster05 Member Posts: 39
    I’ll give that a shot!  This pic shows where the Supply/Return enter the main line.  Also shows the spirovent and expansion tank for the boilers.

    Tarm Solo Plus wood boiler with 600 gal storage tank using repurposed cast iron radiators.