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What is this called?

DeltaFox
DeltaFox Member Posts: 3
I'm a new owner of a 1950s New England home with hot water heat. It's a one pipe system with single (downstream) Venturi T's at each radiator branch.

1. Does this style/type of radiator have a particular name?

I think it's a predecessor of the modern slant fin. I believe it's aluminum fins and encased in steel sheet metal.

2. If this was yours, would you (A) attempt to salvage the radiator (given it's mechanically sound) or (B) replace with a new slant fin (baseboard element only).

----

A bit of info for context:

This radiator is the last in a series of 6 rads in an ~80ft loop. This radiator rarely gets hot. I think its largely due to the (original) Venturi T and regular T spacing (<12in). I'm going to repipe to increase spacing to 12in (or perhaps, a home run manifold).

Heat loss calc is fine; there is more then enough energy to heat this radiator, despite it being the last in the loop. 

Comments

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,315
    It's a convector and the cover is extremely important.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    Mad Dog_2STEVEusaPASuperTech
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,384
    @DeltaFox , before replacing the element (fin-tube assembly) in that convector, I'd first replace the air bleed. That's the little brass piece on top of the vertical pipe. It looks pretty crusty, and if it's not letting air out, that would explain why the convector doesn't heat.

    If a new element is needed, try Beacon-Morris or OCS industries. You do not need to replace the entire convector.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    Mad Dog_2
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,331
    You've likely got a mono flo system and like @Steamhead mentioned, that branch is probably air locked.
    The pressure on the boiler needs to be dropped to zero, then replace the vent. It doesn't need to be the same type. You could put a Taco Hy-vent or equivalent in there with a ball valve. 
    Keep in mind, if you were to change the convector, you'd probably need 5x the linear feet with fin tube baseboard to get the same BTU output.
    Mad Dog_2
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,518
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,635
    Donna shop vac it, but surely steam it with a small steamer like McCulloch or Wagner portable steamer. I use them to clean fin tube baseboard and such. Put a cookie sheet or towels under it and steam the crap out of it.
  • DeltaFox
    DeltaFox Member Posts: 3
    The problem I'm running into is taking it apart without shearing the female elbow connections from the transfer encasements (or the things at both ends of the element) with the slightest amount of torque.

    I've taken apart two elements and sheared one each time.

    I then made a shoddy attempt to solder them back. This was my first and unsuccessful attempt to solder brass. Is this route worth pursuing?





  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,518
    Convector..Mad Dog 🐕 
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,518
    How many psi u testing that with?  Looks like 95/5?? Mad Dog 🐕 
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,933
    How are you taking it apart? I would almost suspend it with the backup wrench on the ell that is rolled in to the tank and arrange the wrench on the nipple so you just squeeze the handles of the 2 wrenches together to break it loose. You might need to use a crescent wrench or open end or box wrench to grip the elbow without the jaw levering against the tank.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,933
    I would also find some 50/50 solder for the repair, it will flow better and melt at a lower temp. You can also control how fluid it is by controlling the heat.
    ChrisJMad Dog_2