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What is this called?
DeltaFox
Member Posts: 3
I'm a new owner of a 1950s New England home with hot water heat. It's a one pipe system with single (downstream) Venturi T's at each radiator branch.
1. Does this style/type of radiator have a particular name?
I think it's a predecessor of the modern slant fin. I believe it's aluminum fins and encased in steel sheet metal.
2. If this was yours, would you (A) attempt to salvage the radiator (given it's mechanically sound) or (B) replace with a new slant fin (baseboard element only).
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A bit of info for context:
This radiator is the last in a series of 6 rads in an ~80ft loop. This radiator rarely gets hot. I think its largely due to the (original) Venturi T and regular T spacing (<12in). I'm going to repipe to increase spacing to 12in (or perhaps, a home run manifold).
Heat loss calc is fine; there is more then enough energy to heat this radiator, despite it being the last in the loop.
1. Does this style/type of radiator have a particular name?
I think it's a predecessor of the modern slant fin. I believe it's aluminum fins and encased in steel sheet metal.
2. If this was yours, would you (A) attempt to salvage the radiator (given it's mechanically sound) or (B) replace with a new slant fin (baseboard element only).
----
A bit of info for context:
This radiator is the last in a series of 6 rads in an ~80ft loop. This radiator rarely gets hot. I think its largely due to the (original) Venturi T and regular T spacing (<12in). I'm going to repipe to increase spacing to 12in (or perhaps, a home run manifold).
Heat loss calc is fine; there is more then enough energy to heat this radiator, despite it being the last in the loop.
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Comments
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@DeltaFox , before replacing the element (fin-tube assembly) in that convector, I'd first replace the air bleed. That's the little brass piece on top of the vertical pipe. It looks pretty crusty, and if it's not letting air out, that would explain why the convector doesn't heat.
If a new element is needed, try Beacon-Morris or OCS industries. You do not need to replace the entire convector.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
You've likely got a mono flo system and like @Steamhead mentioned, that branch is probably air locked.
The pressure on the boiler needs to be dropped to zero, then replace the vent. It doesn't need to be the same type. You could put a Taco Hy-vent or equivalent in there with a ball valve.
Keep in mind, if you were to change the convector, you'd probably need 5x the linear feet with fin tube baseboard to get the same BTU output.1 -
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Donna shop vac it, but surely steam it with a small steamer like McCulloch or Wagner portable steamer. I use them to clean fin tube baseboard and such. Put a cookie sheet or towels under it and steam the crap out of it.0
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The problem I'm running into is taking it apart without shearing the female elbow connections from the transfer encasements (or the things at both ends of the element) with the slightest amount of torque.
I've taken apart two elements and sheared one each time.
I then made a shoddy attempt to solder them back. This was my first and unsuccessful attempt to solder brass. Is this route worth pursuing?
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How are you taking it apart? I would almost suspend it with the backup wrench on the ell that is rolled in to the tank and arrange the wrench on the nipple so you just squeeze the handles of the 2 wrenches together to break it loose. You might need to use a crescent wrench or open end or box wrench to grip the elbow without the jaw levering against the tank.0
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