Where do you buy your little electrical fittings?
Online or in a local store?
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
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Electrical Supply house for a big order. I had an account at Billows Electric Supply. sometimes SupplyHouse.com is just as economical. Home Depot in a pinch. And for the time saver, for a one time, need it now to get the job done, the local ACE or TrueValue because they are closer than the lower price supplier... Time is money !!!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Ideal connectors on line for bulk.Local Revco for the small amounts and needed now!0
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Electrical wholesaler; by the box/case. Opening little plastic bags for every 2-5 fittings is agravating.
BTW, Ideal has some sweet new wire connectors. They work for solid or stranded and wires can be removed at will. Plus saves a lot of space and has test ports. Once you start using them, you'll throw your non-human wire nuts out the closest window.
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/coveo-search.html#q=in-sure lever&t=all&sort=relevancy&numberOfResults=12
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Harvey Ramer said:Electrical wholesaler; by the box/case. Opening little plastic bags for every 2-5 fittings is agravating.
BTW, Ideal has some sweet new wire connectors. They work for solid or stranded and wires can be removed at will. Plus saves a lot of space and has test ports. Once you start using them, you'll throw your non-human wire nuts out the closest window.
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/coveo-search.html#q=in-sure lever&t=all&sort=relevancy&numberOfResults=12Too many of those melting under load.3 -
pecmsg said:Harvey Ramer said:Electrical wholesaler; by the box/case. Opening little plastic bags for every 2-5 fittings is agravating.
BTW, Ideal has some sweet new wire connectors. They work for solid or stranded and wires can be removed at will. Plus saves a lot of space and has test ports. Once you start using them, you'll throw your non-human wire nuts out the closest window.
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/coveo-search.html#q=in-sure lever&t=all&sort=relevancy&numberOfResults=12Too many of those melting under load.
I've heard guys complain about Wagos and try they're always no name ones that have the issues. I haven't heard anything about Ideal but I'd expect their stuff to be quality.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Up untill a few months ago, the home center. Or billows in a pinch, but they are in an inconvenient location, and the prices were high.
Now, City Electric , a Supply house with a branch in the industrial park we are in. I had been saying for years i need to stop in there. I went in there to purchase an 2" LB conduit fitting, and struck up a conversation with the manager, who was working the counter that day. I told him my shop was around the corner, yada yada. We legally wire boilers, yada yada.
He offered me an account application, and entered me in the computer as a c.o.d. account. Plus he, and the other counterman are super nice guys. They treat you like your a steady, regular customer, even though I'm only in there maybe once a month.
Later, I compared the price that he charged me to prices on line, and he was less than mostly all of the prices on the interweb.
Ive been going there now exclusively. The prices are more than competitive (i cant
imagine that an electrician is paying less), You can park right in front of the door, and no roaming around the box store looking for someone to unlock the cabinets for the roll of wire that you need.
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Those spring clamp connectors are like spring type backwire devices, they are ok if everything goes perfect but there are too many ways they can fail if the wire isn't perfect. They are fine for signal wiring but iwpuldn't use them on wiring carrying appreciable current. Wire nuts or clamp type terminals get a lot more surface of the wire.0
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1) Local Mom & Pop stores get first crack. (Local small business)
2) Box store (providing local jobs)
3) Online (Supply House for Controls & Relays)
Mad Dog2 -
pecmsg said:Harvey Ramer said:Electrical wholesaler; by the box/case. Opening little plastic bags for every 2-5 fittings is agravating.
BTW, Ideal has some sweet new wire connectors. They work for solid or stranded and wires can be removed at will. Plus saves a lot of space and has test ports. Once you start using them, you'll throw your non-human wire nuts out the closest window.
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/coveo-search.html#q=in-sure lever&t=all&sort=relevancy&numberOfResults=12Too many of those melting under load.2 -
I feel that's not really accurate in this case Matt.mattmia2 said:Those spring clamp connectors are like spring type backwire devices, they are ok if everything goes perfect but there are too many ways they can fail if the wire isn't perfect. They are fine for signal wiring but iwpuldn't use them on wiring carrying appreciable current. Wire nuts or clamp type terminals get a lot more surface of the wire.
No one likes backstabbed outlets.
Many like Wago connectors, and a lot of "old timers" argue they're no good, just because.
Like I said, I've heard nothing but good things about the actual Wago brand ones.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Do they feel the same, like lever pressure etc?dko said:You would not be able to tell the difference between a knock-off Wago from Aliexpress and an actual Wago with just your eyes. Even all the text is copied to the tee. It's quite unnerving.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I'm not bothered by the price of electrical, all of which are practically free compared to any/all plumbing fittings. I am intrigued by the little lever connectors though. Watching my guys try to twist wires together is an instant spike in blood pressure for me.
We buy all the common (what I call) ½ male box connectors and elbows. What I have trouble finding is chase nipples and those little plugs for unused/removed knockouts.Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
Classes1 -
There used to be many electrical suppliers in my area of NJ. Coincidentally, GM, Merck, Ford and many other companies had plants within a half hour of my shop. Toady, most of the large manufactures have left the area and there are only a handful of suppliers.
Like most of you, we use only purchase electrical supplies about once a month. We typically visit Cooper Electric for most items. Occasionally we'll go to Home Depot or Lowes if it is more convenient. Once in a while we will get lucky at a local hardware store and find what we need.2 -
Hi, Scott. Where's Cooper Electric? In NJ we're in OrangeScottSecor said:There used to be many electrical suppliers in my area of NJ. Coincidentally, GM, Merck, Ford and many other companies had plants within a half hour of my shop. Toady, most of the large manufactures have left the area and there are only a handful of suppliers.
Like most of you, we use only purchase electrical supplies about once a month. We typically visit Cooper Electric for most items. Occasionally we'll go to Home Depot or Lowes if it is more convenient. Once in a while we will get lucky at a local hardware store and find what we need.Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
Classes0 -
What issue are you having with this? It is like reaming/cleaning/fluxing copper pipe. It looks easy buy there are some specific things you have to do and it takes practice to do it quickly. I see lots of hvac things without enough free length on the conductors so I suspect that is half of it, there needs to be enough wire to be able to position everything together.JohnNY said:Watching my guys try to twist wires together is an instant spike in blood pressure for me.
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I have not tried Wagos yet I still have plenty of wire nuts and am not doing much anymore anyhow. The Wagos are probably good for someone that has arthritis (like me).
I have an Ideal screwdriver with a hollowed-out handle that fits wire nuts that make twisting them on easier.
I have read on some electrical forums about melting Wagos and push in connectors. But the lever nuts would seem to be much superior to the push in connectors which are the same as a back stab outlet which is a call back waiting to happen.0 -
@mattmia2 I believe he's talking about his workers. Trying to get guys to follow instructions and do decent work is far harder than most think.
There's absolutely no reason Wagos would have any issue with HVAC work, especially boilers.
The fact they're easier to use would put someone's mind at ease knowing their workers are less likely to make mistakes.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I have twisted wire nuts since the 1960's.
Tried most of the new "better mouse traps" designs.
Finding the right ones that do not tear your fingers up has been challenging.
After decades of testing I have settled on tan colored Ideal Twisters and can retire in peace.
5/16" nut driver will fit on the ends, the wings have a comfortable fit for fingers, usually can reuse if not over stretched.
From trouble shooting/checking I see what causes the most failures.
Not enough insulation is stripped from the wires, strip more than you think you should.
Then holding the bundle together start the nut backwards about 1/2 a turn and then tighten CW.
If one of the wires do not catch well you get a "shiner" of copper showing.
Short stripping will not show the "shiners".
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I use the Ideal "Twister" ones, I think tan for most things as well. My boss prefers the 3M ones with the rubber coating and rubber boot. I've also been using a lot of crimp butt connectors with the moisture seal heat shrink on them, but that's stuff that's outside mostly.JUGHNE said:I have twisted wire nuts since the 1960's.
Tried most of the new "better mouse traps" designs.
Finding the right ones that do not tear your fingers up has been challenging.
After decades of testing I have settled on tan colored Ideal Twisters and can retire in peace.
5/16" nut driver will fit on the ends, the wings have a comfortable fit for fingers, usually can reuse if not over stretched.
From trouble shooting/checking I see what causes the most failures.
Not enough insulation is stripped from the wires, strip more than you think you should.
Then holding the bundle together start the nut backwards about 1/2 a turn and then tighten CW.
If one of the wires do not catch well you get a "shiner" of copper showing.
Short stripping will not show the "shiners".
I never actually answered @JohnNY 's question..
Most of my stuff is bought online. For work, a lot comes from McMaster because I need it last minute. I think Supplyhouse is also carrying a lot of electrical stuff now as well. For smaller electronics stuff etc I use Digikey or Mouser.
Besides that, I have used Warshauer as well as they're local. https://www.warshauer.com/
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Not anymore but they were all the rage 40 years ago. It wasn't until people started finding them burned that they realized they were sold a bill of goods.ChrisJ said:I feel that's not really accurate in this case Matt.
No one likes backstabbed outlets.
Natural gas boilers it is just essentially signal wiring at line voltage, in lots of other hvac applications there is significant current involved. The spring backwire terminals work if you apply them under the conditions of the listing test too.0 -
I say that ALL the time Johnny NY...Home Depot trip ...
Sheetrock & wood ....$250
electrical.....................$175
Plumbing & Heating....$800
Not joking...Our stuff WAY more $$ mad dog 🐕2 -
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mattmia2 said:
I feel that's not really accurate in this case Matt. No one likes backstabbed outlets.
Not anymore but they were all the rage 40 years ago. It wasn't until people started finding them burned that they realized they were sold a bill of goods. Natural gas boilers it is just essentially signal wiring at line voltage, in lots of other hvac applications there is significant current involved. The spring backwire terminals work if you apply them under the conditions of the listing test too.4 -
@JohnNY Copper that we visit most often is in Linden, NJ. I just visited their website and noticed they are no locations real close to Orange.
Here is the link with locations. They will deliver, but we normally pick up what we need.
https://www.cooper-electric.com/about/locations
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ChrisJ said:pecmsg said:Harvey Ramer said:Electrical wholesaler; by the box/case. Opening little plastic bags for every 2-5 fittings is agravating.
BTW, Ideal has some sweet new wire connectors. They work for solid or stranded and wires can be removed at will. Plus saves a lot of space and has test ports. Once you start using them, you'll throw your non-human wire nuts out the closest window.
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/coveo-search.html#q=in-sure lever&t=all&sort=relevancy&numberOfResults=12Too many of those melting under load.
I've heard guys complain about Wagos and try they're always no name ones that have the issues. I haven't heard anything about Ideal but I'd expect their stuff to be quality.1 -
The first problem is putting lineman's pliers in the hands of plumbers. Striping wires with pliers is a learned motion and I try to impart that to my guys. I've always preferred it to using wire strippers because I prefer to carry a single electrical tool for some reason.mattmia2 said:
What issue are you having with this? It is like reaming/cleaning/fluxing copper pipe. It looks easy buy there are some specific things you have to do and it takes practice to do it quickly. I see lots of hvac things without enough free length on the conductors so I suspect that is half of it, there needs to be enough wire to be able to position everything together.JohnNY said:Watching my guys try to twist wires together is an instant spike in blood pressure for me.
Whatever.
It's not the weirdest thing I do.Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
Classes1 -
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These they "Might" be able to use!JohnNY said:
The first problem is putting lineman's pliers in the hands of plumbers. Striping wires with pliers is a learned motion and I try to impart that to my guys. I've always preferred it to using wire strippers because I prefer to carry a single electrical tool for some reason.mattmia2 said:
What issue are you having with this? It is like reaming/cleaning/fluxing copper pipe. It looks easy buy there are some specific things you have to do and it takes practice to do it quickly. I see lots of hvac things without enough free length on the conductors so I suspect that is half of it, there needs to be enough wire to be able to position everything together.JohnNY said:Watching my guys try to twist wires together is an instant spike in blood pressure for me.
Whatever.
It's not the weirdest thing I do.
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/high-leverage-side-cutting-pliers/hybrid-pliers-crimper-and-wire-stripper1 -
Damn! Those are cool! Thanks, @pecmsg . Purchasing.pecmsg said:
These they "Might" be able to use!JohnNY said:
The first problem is putting lineman's pliers in the hands of plumbers. Striping wires with pliers is a learned motion and I try to impart that to my guys. I've always preferred it to using wire strippers because I prefer to carry a single electrical tool for some reason.mattmia2 said:
What issue are you having with this? It is like reaming/cleaning/fluxing copper pipe. It looks easy buy there are some specific things you have to do and it takes practice to do it quickly. I see lots of hvac things without enough free length on the conductors so I suspect that is half of it, there needs to be enough wire to be able to position everything together.JohnNY said:Watching my guys try to twist wires together is an instant spike in blood pressure for me.
Whatever.
It's not the weirdest thing I do.
https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/high-leverage-side-cutting-pliers/hybrid-pliers-crimper-and-wire-stripperContact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
Consulting & Troubleshooting
Heating in NYC or NJ.
Classes2 -
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Most all electrical stuff: electrical supply house (spent too many years as an electrician to get stuff anywhere else). Specialty pieces (RIBs, etc.) from a local supply house where I get to argue with the old hippy behind the counter until the inside sales girl runs me out.
B-caps until I found Gorilla Nuts, not opposed to Wagos. Linesmans, strips, & dikes: the combos seem like they'd do everything—poorly. But I've been using linesmans since last century.
The only company who has more of my money than Kline is Fluke.
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pecmsg said:
These they "Might" be able to use! https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/high-leverage-side-cutting-pliers/hybrid-pliers-crimper-and-wire-stripper
The first problem is putting lineman's pliers in the hands of plumbers. Striping wires with pliers is a learned motion and I try to impart that to my guys. I've always preferred it to using wire strippers because I prefer to carry a single electrical tool for some reason. Whatever. It's not the weirdest thing I do.Watching my guys try to twist wires together is an instant spike in blood pressure for me.
What issue are you having with this? It is like reaming/cleaning/fluxing copper pipe. It looks easy buy there are some specific things you have to do and it takes practice to do it quickly. I see lots of hvac things without enough free length on the conductors so I suspect that is half of it, there needs to be enough wire to be able to position everything together.0 -
i have one of those i bought in germany 20 years ago. it didn't cost $40 though.STEAM DOCTOR said:0 -
but that's just one meterratio said:The only company who has more of my money than Kline is Fluke.
when i rewired my house 20 some years ago 26 year old me was less worried about nicking the wire and i used lineman's pliers or diagonal cutters to strip the wires. I use strippers or a knife in a pencil sharpening type of motion now because i want to be sure i didn't nick the wire in such a way it can break off.JohnNY said:
The first problem is putting lineman's pliers in the hands of plumbers. Striping wires with pliers is a learned motion and I try to impart that to my guys. I've always preferred it to using wire strippers because I prefer to carry a single electrical tool for some reason.
Whatever.
It's not the weirdest thing I do.0 -
I worked as a Non-Union Electrician helper right out of HS for almost a year in Corona Queens. The got good at stripping wire fast with the Linesman pliers. 1) Lightly squeeze and rotate around wire to score the coating. 2) Squeeze a little tighter and put hand ✋ on the teeth jaws and pull...just don't cut in to the copper wire.
BX..I don't need no stinkin, fancy BX Cutter with the handle. Still never owned one. Grab the BX with two hands, snap "the spine" like your breaking open a Lobster 🦞 Tail, cut with Sharp Wiss (The Best) tin snips. DONE! Mad Dog 🐕1 -
Tan twisters for last 20 yrs, prior to that yellows. Little blue ideals for stat wire. Rib relays usually from supplyhouse. Use to go to local controls supplier but now they never have stock and 30% + more in cost.
I always liked supporting local but it's getting harder due mostly to convenience.0 -
Heh.mattmia2 said:I was using my BX strippers once, it wasn't until I was wirenutting the feeders into the light that I found out the circuit was hot... They're also nice when you're working with the old steel stuff.
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