Looking to upgrade to TRVs, add lockshields, install Outdoor Reset

SENorthEast1895er

I'm looking to upgrade my old radiant heat system to TRVs and an outdoor reset. Pretty sure I can do this job myself, especially since the old valves were removed about 7 years ago when the previous owner removed, sandblasted, and painted the radiators.

However, I find it a bit challenging to figure out what I need, as so much of the info on the web is for the UK market.

First, on the outdoor reset; its an old munchkin and I bought the reset already. What kind of wire do you use to connect it?

On the TRVs:

- It looks to me like I can only get basic actuators/operators (no smart ones, none of the Danfoss TRV/locksmiths combo units). Is this correct?
- I don't have any lock shields, and they are needed due to the system having be reconfigured. However, I can't find any on Supplyhouse dot com.
- I've learned that there are bi-directional valves that can be installed on the return side. Does this work in lieu of a lockshield and/or is there any benefit to this?
- If so, I can't figure out if the SupplyHouse valves are bi-directional. I'd rather avoid the noise of it. Are they bi-directional, or is this also a UK-only thing?
- for controls with local sensor, I've read it's better to get valves that place the control body parallel to the floor (presumably, so it's a few inches further away from the radiator). Is there any truth to this?
- I have 10 radiators, mostly 1" pipes, some 1 1/4". I need 2 remote sensors. Does about $1,800 sound right for the BOM for this job.
- Can my TACO 007-F5 handle TRVs?

Thanks for any and all answers.

hot_rod

A lock shield is typically a manual valve that an actuator can be added to. In some cases a valve on both S&R allows you to isolate a radiator for service, painting, what ever.

I think most all of the valve manufacturers have electronic, programmable head/ setback options, some wi fi enabled also. Some Danfoss and Honeywell options below.

True the selection is much better across the pond.


\https://www.danfoss.com/en/products/dhs/smart-heating/#tab-smart-heating

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

Can you send us some pictures of the piping at the radiators?

SENorthEast1895er

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Alan (California Radiant) Forbes said:

Can you send us some pictures of the piping at the radiators?

SENorthEast1895er

@hot_rod k, so my understanding was that i would need a lock shield valve to balance the system (especially since a radiator has been removed). It sounds like you’re saying that’s not necessary. Is that correct?

Getting pretty confused now. as I assumed lockshields balanced the system and, when used in combo with TRVs or other send-side valves, allowed one to adjust the room temp without disrupting system balance.

But I guess that, in the end, it’s all flow-restriction, and blanching could be done with any valve on either S or R.

hot_rod

Lockshield, convertiable, there are different names for these valves.
Basically it is a valve that could be manually adjusted and locked in position with a plastic cap.
Or a plastic knob added so it could be easily turned and adjusted.
or a thermostatic or electronic head could be added for automatic temperature control.

Some folks start with this basic valve and try manually adjusting and balancing. If you want thermostatic control you can add a TRV head later.

The wheeled handle valve you have can also be used to do some balancing manually, but no automatic function could be added.

You only need and adjustable valve on one end of the radiator regardless of the wheel type you have or a convertible lock shield valve.

In some cases you might add the additional manual valve, needs an allen wrench to adjust or shut off on the opposite end for the purpose of isolating a radiator as mentioned before.

There will be some work involved in removing those old connections and valve and adapting these smaller convertible lock shield valves.
Some serious wrenching may be needed to remove those old fittings. Then reducing to the new valves.

Some pics of how the valves look inside and the handle options. Notice the manual vs the convertible /lock shield design.

The manual 343452 is really not much different then the valve you currently have. Smaller, chrome plated and handle-less

It is best to have the thermostatic heads mounted horizontally to allow good air flow across the sensor. They do get mounted vertically also, very often, and they work okay. Keeps them out of harms way better when standing straight up.

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

This is what I would use (they have different sizes) along with an operator.