Condensate receiver inlet piping

findmyselfacity

This should be simple enough, but it's been a long time since I've had to think about such things, and I feel I am missing something.

This is connected to an industrial dishwasher. There are (6) thermostatically controlled solenoid valves to maintain heat in the wash tanks, (6) inverted bucket traps with ¾” piping on the outlets. Typical flowing steam pressure is 10-12 psi. Only one of the tanks heats properly.

Even though the condensate receiver is on the floor, as opposed to being in a pit, it seems like there should be enough pressure to lift that condensate into the tank.

What is throwing me off is the ¾” line they have teed off the 2” line, that goes around to the other side of the tank and is piped into what the manufacturer shows in their print is a drain tapping.

Seems like it shouldn’t be there at all, and the cause of my heating issue. Although I'm now noticing in the pictures that the one next to it seems piped in a similar way, but they haven't used that machine in years, so I have no clue how it actually worked.

Can't seem to find a definitive answer on the internet, and my laosh is still buried in a box from the move. Any insights/help greatly appreciated!

-Mark

Pumpguy

That 1/2" line that tees off the main return line and goes around to connect to the tank's drain tapping will allow gravity flow of condensate into the receiving tank.

That said, the return line will still need to displace the water column in the tank with enough pressure to push condensate into the tank and trip the float switch.

Is the vent line that comes off the top of the tank open to atmosphere? If not, it should be.

Is the outlet from the lowest trap higher than the height of the condensate pump's tank inlet?

If no, with the present arrangement you're always going have a water column to displace to get condensate into the tank.

If yes, you might consider adding overhead air lines to provide what is called a "Door Loop" piping arrangement. This will allow the system to vent air, even though the low return line is totally flooded.

The attached file describes the details.

findmyselfacity

Many thanks.

Top of tank is vented to atmosphere, it's piped as an upside down "U"

I will check on a return trip, but I believe lowest trap is below tank inlet, so agreed I will always have to displace that water column. Not sure what kind of pressure I should expect on the outlet of the bucket trap to help move that condensate. For all I know I'm not getting good steam pressure to the trap in the first place due to clogged strainers and/or solenoid valves that need rebuilding, which would affect outlet pressure. Also a mission for the next trip.

I also don't think there are check valves after any of the traps, not sure if that is a factor. Lots to contemplate and investigate.

Many thanks indeed.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@findmyselfacity

You may not have enough pressure after the traps to lift the condensate.

When the coils are not heating your solenoids close and you have no pressure after the traps to move the condensate.

The 3/4 Inch pipe is a misguided effort to get condensate into the tank without lifting it.


You always going to have a water trap to lift.

What may be happening depending on the elevation of your steam coils if they are low is that one coil with a n open solenoid heating may force condensate into another coil via the return line flooding it and causing it not to heat

findmyselfacity

Definitely agree, it's all mostly coming back to me now, thank you for the brain assist! LAOSH has been unboxed and properly put on the new bookshelf. After I reread most of it of course! So good...