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Columbia Boiler Only Firing Up Occasionally

I have an issue with my boiler it will only fire up every 10-20 times it try's to start. I cant seem to get it to run consistently. I have replaced the nozzle with the one stated on the boiler. I changed the oil line. Cleaned all the dust from the blower and the inside of the boiler. I cleaned the ignitor prongs. I've bled the radiators several times. When it does come on it builds up to the right pressure. I'm including video link of what its doing. As well as a picture of the info plate.

The boiler is made by Columbia. It was Manufactured in Jan-2008 and the model # is CSFH3100WLC


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RneX8m9ynr87K9QafYMpvds7wPZ_2NyX/view?usp=sharing

Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    It's broke. You need a competent professional, who know Riello and electric air dampers.
    I see no combustion/draft/smoke numbers. Nor do I see what, if any actual troubleshooting was done on any components.
    But it looks like it could be as simple as an electrical connection, or as annoying as your electric air damper.
    I don't like the molex plug laying on the air tube, and it looks like it's a little strained.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    DJD775
  • BeardedOrigins
    BeardedOrigins Member Posts: 3
    There is no electric air damper just straight piped to the chimney. The reason the molex plug is right there in the video is because I had it all tore apart and had just put it all back together an had not put the cover back on the blower yet. I have 23 years experience in plumbing but have never really dealt with home boilers. Like I said it will ignite every once in awhile but not consistently. It has ran fine for 10 or so years it just started doing it.
  • DJD775
    DJD775 Member Posts: 255
    How does 23 years experience in plumbing relate to anything if you never worked on an oil burner? The electric air damper is there but not in the flue.
    Get a pro there for help.
    STEVEusaPABeardedOrigins
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,239
    The damper motor is kaput. I've replaced many. I'm not sure if they're still available as Riello no longer ships with either the electric or hydraulic air gate. You can remove it completely with this,BUT, the sprocket wheel MUST be removed and the center screw on the air shutter secured tight.
    It doesn't really matter since you have no idea how well or poor the burner runs without a combustion test, but make note of the air setting before you remove the wheel.
    You really should have a competent oil tech set up the burner properly with draft, smoke, and combustion tests. Check safeties and limits, etc.
    STEVEusaPA
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,157

    There is no electric air damper just straight piped to the chimney. The reason the molex plug is right there in the video is because I had it all tore apart and had just put it all back together an had not put the cover back on the blower yet. I have 23 years experience in plumbing but have never really dealt with home boilers. Like I said it will ignite every once in awhile but not consistently. It has ran fine for 10 or so years it just started doing it.

    Actually there is an electric damper. It is that black thing that is rotating closed every time you hear the click after the burner blower stops.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    BeardedOrigins
  • BeardedOrigins
    BeardedOrigins Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2023
    HVACNUT said:

    The damper motor is kaput. I've replaced many. I'm not sure if they're still available as Riello no longer ships with either the electric or hydraulic air gate. You can remove it completely with this,BUT, the sprocket wheel MUST be removed and the center screw on the air shutter secured tight.
    It doesn't really matter since you have no idea how well or poor the burner runs without a combustion test, but make note of the air setting before you remove the wheel.
    You really should have a competent oil tech set up the burner properly with draft, smoke, and combustion tests. Check safeties and limits, etc.

    Thank you for taking the time to explain stuff. That's all I was looking for I appreciate it. Is there a suitable replacement for that damper?
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 747
    If I recall that damper is open or closed there is no adjustment to it. the air adjustment is set and fixed. when the electric damper is removed the fixed damper should be behind it. That adjustment must be made with a combustion analyzer. Riello burners are pretty picky about their set up.
    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager,teacher and dog walker
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,157

    Thank you for taking the time to explain stuff. That's all I was looking for I appreciate it. Is there a suitable replacement for that damper?

    Not really, Most of us have disabled the damper once the failure like yours happens. You just need the part of that assembly that is the fixed adjustment in order to control the air quantity to match the oil quantity in order to get a clean burning flame without too much excess air.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?