Frozen isolation valve…can I replace a part?.

potatoskater

Found this onlinebostonheatingsupply.com/0207500.aspx…it is exactly what I have but mine is blue corroded and won’t turn.
What are my options?
Can I use a wrench and remove the core to the isolation valve and replace with the graphite string packing and stuff?
Once drained can I apply some heat to the valve and see if it frees up?
Thank you!

potatoskater

EdTheHeaterMan

Not a fan of that setup. I would build my own using a ball valve (or a globe valve if it is used for balancing) and a boiler drain with real handles on them. But that is just me!https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-50613-3-4-Sweat-PRO-PAL-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-w-Drain

hot_rod

A 6 point socket is what I would try to remove the entire guts. In a vice with some WD maybe you can free it up, repack it

Doesn’t matter the brand, type, or quality, all valves can seize after years of non use, hydronic or plumbing

potatoskater

So I shouldn’t try to remove it with a six point socket in place? But I’d need to remove the pipe first?

potatoskater

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Not a fan of that setup. I would build my own using a ball valve (or a globe valve if it is used for balancing) and a boiler drain with real handles on them. But that is just me!https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-50613-3-4-Sweat-PRO-PAL-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-w-Drain

I like that idea too, this involves removing the one in place and replacing, is this the same way I repaired the copper pipes that burst or does it require a new set of skills I may not yet have?

potatoskater

So no heating the actual valve part to try to break it free? Corrosion is permanent and a bad thing? I means heating it when the water was out in place…

potatoskater

Idea, could I cut below valve and add a compression fitting shutoff ball valve with a lever , would that work? Or is it best to remove other part and connect in the combo drain isolation valve part?

potatoskater

potatoskater said:

Idea, could I cut below valve and add a compression fitting shutoff ball valve with a lever , would that work? Or is it best to remove other part and connect in the combo drain isolation valve part?

Cutting where the red line is and then a bit below

potatoskater

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Not a fan of that setup. I would build my own using a ball valve (or a globe valve if it is used for balancing) and a boiler drain with real handles on them. But that is just me!https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-50613-3-4-Sweat-PRO-PAL-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-w-Drain

This fitting has threaded brass ends, would I need to get an adapter for each side, tape and done and connect then solder it into where the old fittting was? Just wanted to understand what my options were. Thanks

EBEBRATT-Ed

@potatoskater

Yes you could install a valve below it. Most would opt for a more permanent fix and just replace the valve with a new one. If you have to cut the pipe anyhow why not

potatoskater

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

@potatoskater

Yes you could install a valve below it. Most would opt for a more permanent fix and just replace the valve with a new one. If you have to cut the pipe anyhow why not

So it’s best to capture the pipe and not try to remove the fitting with heat?

hot_rod

Brass to brass threads usually come apart easily. I think with a socket you could remove the innards in place. Possibly a fiber washer making the seal where the valve assembly screws into the body.

In some cases they "glue" that together with Loctite. Just heat the valve slightly after you drain down and you soften the Loctite and it will screw right out.

No harm in heating it slightly with a torch regardless, to expand the brass body and the valve will screw out.