Peerless WBV-3 Tankless Coil Questions

FredoSP

Hello Forum,

I have two questions about my Peerless WBV-3 tankless oil. I'm thinking about replacing the tankless coil myself this summer. My oil company quoted me $820.00 plus tax, which I'm still debating because I don't want to throw good money to bad if I could purchase a new WBV-3 boiler for roughly $2,500 and use my existing Riello F3 burner. The boiler is from 1992. I'm not sure if we are allowed to post prices here but the numbers to tell a story when the coil replacement is just about 1/3 of the price of a new boiler (minus installation cost).


1. In the picture below, can anyone tell me what fittings I need to purchase? I know its a 1/2" 90 degree to a 1/2" sweat but is is brass or copper? Does it even matter?


2. When the service tech came to the house and was reviewing my setup in order to give me an estimate on the tankless coil job, he said that all I needed was a new tankless gasket, bolts and a plate? I'm pretty sure I told him that I wanted to keep the tankless coil and not block it off with a plate. Every replacement tankless coil I see online comes as one unit, meaning you cannot buy the "plate" and solder the copper tubes on the rear of it. Am I mistaken? I have the original Peerless boiler booklet from 1992 and the parts diagram shows it as one piece. Part #: X1019 that has now been superseded to 90532.

Big Ed_4

That's a good price , trust me

FredoSP

Big Ed_4 said:

That's a good price , trust me

I'm well aware of the horror stories of those bolts snapping, etc. If the $#!& really hit the fan I would by pass the coil and use my gas fired hot water heater that we currently use for domestic. During Hurricane Sandy when we had no power for a week, the hot water from the gas water heater felt like a gift from god.

I just have to figure out if that price includes the replacement coil or just the plate to "delete" the tankless. I would like to keep the tankless.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Plate or tankless you have to be able to get the bolts out without them breaking if possible. Check out TFI Ever hot for the tankless coil.

If you don't want the tankless you put a blank plate on if you want the tankless you put a new coil in which comes installed on its own plate.

If the bolts break you can't just bypass the coil you need the bolts for the coil or the blank plate whichever you install

The elbows are 1/2" brass street elbows you can use copper ones as well . Looks like the street end is soldered into 1/2" male adapters

FredoSP

I do appreciate all the response so far. It's helps me learn a lot of things.

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

If you don't want the tankless you put a blank plate on if you want the tankless you put a new coil in which comes installed on its own plate.

That's what I thought. I didn't think a plate was sold separately that you connect your own copper coil to. It's either a plate to delete the tankless or a coiI & plate in one unit. I also looked at the website you suggested and I didn't see anything for the Peerless WBV-3. I can give them a call tomorrow and double check.

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

If the bolts break you can't just bypass the coil you need the bolts for the coil or the blank plate whichever you install

Correct, I knew that. I meant I already have a 1/2" copper pipe skipping the tankless connection. I know I need a plate or the plate + coil or else I'll have water pouring out to say the least.

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

The elbows are 1/2" brass street elbows you can use copper ones as well . Looks like the street end is soldered into 1/2" male adapters

Here's another picture. I think it's just a 1/2" NPT 90 to a 1/2 female "cup". Everything is so darn crusty it's hard to see.

EBEBRATT-Ed

yeah. closer look they look like 1/2" copper x male 90s NIBCO #707-4.

If you can't get them you could use a 1/2" copper street elbow soldered into a 1/2" copper male adapter.


I would solder the adapter to the elbow and a short piece of copper into the other side of the elbow. After it cools dope it up and screw it in and connect to your existing pipe with a coupling or union.

FredoSP

Thanks Ed. When I'm looking for the elbow I also see bronze fittings too. I guess Bronze is also popular? I always thought options were only copper or brass. Any idea of why Bronze is used?

STEVEusaPA

I'd just use brass male x press elbow and go from there.

MarineEngineer

Rather than start a new post, I figured I'd follow up here as my question is related to FredoSP's question. I need to replace the tankless coil on my WBV03 water heater. The relief valve is popping periodically. I changed the relief valve and am still having the issue. My next guess is its the coil. Currently installed is the x1019r type. It has been working great since 2004. I searched vendors online and found one old coil, x1019R for $325, and the new coil, 90532 for $415. I'm trying to understand why I should pay about $100 more for the new coil. I understand parts change all the time, sometimes the change is worth it due to correcting errors in the previous design. I can't find any information or service bulletins as to why this coil was replaced with a new coil. Does anyone here know why this coil changed? Thanks for your input.

FredoSP

Hi MarineEngineer,

I wish that I could add something to help but my tankless coil replacement didn't happen this Summer as I would have liked. I was wrapped up in too many projects around the house. Hopefully I won't have any issues this heating season. The only thing I can add is to be 100% sure you're purchasing the correct coil for the WVB3. I think the WVB4 and WVB5 use a different coil because they are bigger boilers.

If you decide to change the coil please take some pictures and post them to this thread.