Honeywell Help

Melby

Boiler blew stopped working last night. Power up until control panel is fine then it stops. The little Honeywell trip switch will start and run the boiler but I can’t sit here holding it all night. What’s my next step in diagnosing the problem?

Its also leaking what looks to be water from the motor here:

 Can anyone help please? I’ve got three people relying on this thing tonight.

Melby

ALSO: looks like the little switch thing is a magnet or some sort…. Could it be possible that even though my thermostat says it’s working it’s just not getting the signal?

Ive Jammed that little switch to the on position so we can get some heat in the house. I know I shouldn’t keep it like that for long, hopefully until someone sees this post and is nice enough to enlighten me on the dinosaurs illness. The motors making squeaking noises also.

Mad Dog_2

Your exuberance can be felt from here.  What is your level or expertise with controls?   Don't wanna see you fry anything or get zapped!  Mad Dog 

Melby

So you’re saying my emissions are within state regulations?

Control experience little unfortunately, I stay fried and hold a Doctorate in Getting Zapped though so that’s not a problem.

After a second tour of the thermostat I noticed the Battery Replacement indicator on the display and removed the face.(which could be considered controls yes?) I noticed a battery had blown from both which were covered in corrosion. Before that the display said the batteries fine.

Sorry for wasting your time. Thanks for the uplifting comment though, that was clutch.

Melby

so this is a few years later and problems have kept the boiler off all winter so far but we’re surviving off space heaters. I have a replacement water pump as since the last picture was posted its condition has worsened. I believe the intermittent controller and pilot under the pump are both bad but want to trouble shoot everything before we spend more money. I’m sure the problem. Will end up being the thermo coupler but does anyone wanna run me through some proper servicing techniques to locate the root problem?

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

Looks like you need to replace the pump, either with another B&G ($$$) or a less expensive water lubricated one (Taco, Grundfos, Wilo).

Do you still have issues with the thermostat or transformer relay?

You may need to hire someone familiar with hydronics to fix your issues. What part of the country are you in?

HomerJSmith

Well, as I understand it, you depress the lever on the Honeywell relay and the boiler fires and the pump turns on. Right? That is what is suppose to happen. That is a two pole relay, one pole is the pump and one pole goes to the gas valve, opening the valve up.

If you manually press the relay and it fires the boiler and turn on the pump, then, you have to determine where the fault lies. Take a alligator jumper and jump the terminals labeled Tv and T. If the boiler fires, the problem is in the thermostat or thermostat wiring. You can leave the jumper on to fire the boiler until the thermostat setting is achieved, then remove the jumper. You don't have to hold the relay down.

If you jump Tv and T and the boiler doesn't fire, then the problem is in the aquastat. Either the relay coil is open or the foil pattern on the back of the board between the Tv and T to the relay coil connection is damaged (open) necessitating a new aquastat. Although, I have repaired them. Understand that a company won't want the liability and would just replace it.

Here is the problem that I have encountered. The action and ensuing vibration of the relay opening and closing, over time, breaks the solder joint of the relay pins to the circuit board causing an open circuit. I have re-soldered the open joint.

Be aware, there is low voltage (24V) and high voltage (120V) on that circuit board. The twain shall not meet. & ground, too.

The wiring diagram is on the inside of the cover. What is the model # ?

mattmia2

i mean call someone if you don't understand basic electronics. use an ac voltmeter to see if t-w is closed on that relay, if the thermostat circuit is closed you should see 0 v with the thermostat calling for heat and ~24 vac with the thermostat not calling. from there either figure out what is open in the thermostat circuit or replace the relay. can also try jumpering the thermostat terminals on the relay and see if the boiler runs BUT DON'T LEVE IT THAT WAY until you figure out of any safeties are in series with the thermostat.

i thought that was a wet rotor circulator, but it is a 3 piece circulator. the seal for that will cost more than replacing it with a wet rotor circulator

109A_5

@Melby More pictures and more clarity and information, boiler make and model about your present issues may help us help you. The thing you call a spring is a Relay.

When the thermostat circuit closes TV to T that puts 24 VAC across W and T (the relay coil of 1K). Relay contacts 1K1 close energizing the circulator (120VAC), contacts 1K2, 1K3 close enabling the burner (24 VAC circuit).

@HomerJSmith if you like repairing Aquastats, next time consider this. Desolder the relay solder joints, unfold the pins so they are vertical (or perpendicular to the circuit board) wrap thermostat wire (or the like) around each pin snugly and extend it at least about 1/2" onto the circuit board and solder it all securely. The added copper wire will make the solder joint must more robust.