Small drip out of bottom of taco 220 flocheck valve

rob51

Hi all,
I have the ever slightest of drips out the bottom plug of this flocheck valve. Can I just give it a little tightening (I’m assuming tight is clockwise), or do I need to replace the plug?

Gilmorrie

Go ahead and try tightening it. Clockwise.

EdTheHeaterMan

Did you ever get the zone with the orange tape to purge?

And, Oh yea... what @Gilmorrie said

rob51

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Did you ever get the zone with the orange tape to purge?

And, Oh yea... what @Gilmorrie said

Yes! I did! I was on the wrong loop. It was as you said. Works perfectly now.

rob51

rob2816 said:

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Did you ever get the zone with the orange tape to purge?

And, Oh yea... what @Gilmorrie said

Yes! I did! I was on the wrong loop. It was as you said. Works perfectly now.

Thank you!

mattmia2

Is the plug leaking or is the packing on top leaking and running down the side?

If it is the plug might need to pull it out and put some new dope and teflon tape on it.

rob51

mattmia2 said:

Is the plug leaking or is the packing on top leaking and running down the side?

If it is the plug might need to pull it out and put some new dope and teflon tape on it.

Pretty sure it’s the plug. I gave it a clockwise crank, but no joy. It’s so little that im thinking to wait until the spring to do it. I put a small cup there. So I can just clean it up, but some new dope and tape? I don’t need a new one?

EBEBRATT-Ed

@rob2816 said "So I can just clean it up, but some new dope and tape?"

Yes. Wire brush everything. An old copper tubing fitting brush will work on the inside threads. Teflon tape and dope. Put a little dope on the inside threads.

EdTheHeaterMan

Also use a back up wrench on the HEX of the flo-valve when tightening or removing the plug. You don't want to stress the thinner portions of the cast iron valve.

rob51

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Also use a back up wrench on the HEX of the flo-valve when tightening or removing the plug. You don't want to stress the thinner portions of the cast iron valve.

Right again! It was the packing nut NOT the plug. You would win HVAC Jeopardy.

rob51

Packing gland, I should say

rob51

rob2816 said:

EdTheHeaterMan said:

Also use a back up wrench on the HEX of the flo-valve when tightening or removing the plug. You don't want to stress the thinner portions of the cast iron valve.

on closer inspection, it seems like the tightening of the packing gland slowed, but did not completely stop the drip. It does not seem to be coming from the gasket of the assembly nut. It is higher than that- the drip starts right at the location of the packing gland and flows downward. Any suggestions? Thank you.

MikeAmann

A suggestion: loosen the packing gland nut as far as you can without completely removing the assembly, apply some thread sealant to the now showing threads, and tighten the nut back down.

EdTheHeaterMan

This is the correct material to use in a packing gland https://www.supplyhouse.com/Danco-80793-3-32-x-24-Graphite-Valve-Stem-Packing

But I have already used teflon tape as packing gland filler and I have also used Kite String and lamp wick with some pipe dope painted on the string.

@MikeAmann has the right idea, you need to add something to act as packing along with the pipe dope.

rob51

Can this procedure be done with the system pressurized or will I have to turn off the water supply and drain the boiler a bit to do it?

rob51

EdTheHeaterMan said:

This is the correct material to use in a packing gland https://www.supplyhouse.com/Danco-80793-3-32-x-24-Graphite-Valve-Stem-Packing But I have already used teflon tape as packing gland filler and I have also used Kite String and lamp wick with some pipe dope painted on the string. @MikeAmann has the right idea, you need to add something to act as packing along with the pipe dope.

Can this be done with the system pressurized or do I need to shutdown the boiler, turn off the water supply and drain some water out of the boiler?

EdTheHeaterMan

This can be completed with the pressure on the system. As you loosen the packing nut there will be some water leaking, so place a towel or bucket under the valve to collect the water. Wrap the string or tape around the stem then push the packing gland nut back in place quickly. As you tighten the nut, the leak will slow then stop.

You can reduce the water pressure in the system it reduce the leaking water, But you do not need to drain the entire system.

rob51

@EdTheHeaterMan thank you. I will try this.

rob51

@EdTheHeaterMan that packing gland nut is hard to turn. What do you recommend to loosen this nut? A socket wrench?

EdTheHeaterMan

First thing is to turn the manual open knob to full open. then a socket wrench would be a good choice to get the best mechanical leverage. a 6 point socket is better than a 12 point socket for tough to move screw thread fittings. A really good penetrating oil like PB Blaster may help.

Joe Mattiello

I love to see all the support for Taco products.
this one was an easy fix. If you need additional support, contact Taco at (401) 942-8000 and ask for tech support.

rob51

@EdTheHeaterMan. Thank you, Ed.  I will try this.