White Rodgers zone valve questions

Tylercoleman5917

I just bought a home with a gas boiler with 3 zone valves. They are 1311-102 so they are a 3 wire power close/open valve. Meaning most thermostats are not compatible as they can't signal the valve to close. So, I bought a 2 wire 1361-102 valve and installed that on the my main floor valve. I was then able to use the 3rd wire which was eliminated and turn that into my c wire by connecting it to terminal 1 on the valve. After all this, I was able to install my new Nest thermostat and everything seemed to be working fine. EXCEPT... I don't think the valve is actually closing once it's reaching temp? What causes the valve to close on these 2 wire systems? Is it a slow close once it reaches temp. My home is 70 degrees with it only set to 60 overnight so I have something going on. I never heard the gears turning to close the valve when turning the tstat down/off. Any help/ideas is appreciated  

hot_rod

Wired like this?
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/White Rodgers - 1361-102 - Wiring Guide.pdf

EBEBRATT-Ed

Two wire zone valves spring closed when the power is removed. If you have 3 wire zone valves with a two wire thermostat you use a relay like a RIBu1C you use the NC contact to drive the valve closed when the thermostat satisfies.

EdTheHeaterMan

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

Two wire zone valves spring closed when the power is removed. If you have 3 wire zone valves with a two wire thermostat you use a relay like a RIBu1C you use the NC contact to drive the valve closed when the thermostat satisfies.

Sounds like the OP purchased and installed the 2 wire head and Bob offered up the wiring diagram for that head. looks like there is a warp switch and a warp switch heater. I wonder how long it takes for the warp switch to cool down and close the contacts that close the valve after the thermostat is satisfied. It may take a minute or so.

Tylercoleman5917

Thanks guys,  yes it's wired correctly as the diagram shows. The only thing I can think is that the 1361 head I got may be junk.. If I manually start to turn it slightly, the motor will kick on and close the valve the rest of the way, but it won't do it on its own when the thermostat reaches temp.
It does however fire up and open the valve when the thermostat signals it too without issue. Maybe the spring or whatever is worn? It wasn't actually a brand new valve (was supposedly refurbished) which mightve meant they just slapped new O rings on and resold it. Anyway I'll find out in a few days I ordered a brand new one to try. If anyone has any other ideas or maybe how I could troubleshoot and verify that it's a faulty unit I'd appreicate it

hot_rod

Those WR valves power open and power close. There is no spring return. With the thermostat set low, manually turn the wheel open a bit.
It should power open and back to close, making a complete revolution.

EdTheHeaterMan

Sounds like the warp switch contacts are not making. Those contacts are normally closed (NC). On a call for heat the motor opens and connects to the holding circuit "arch". At full open the warp switch heater causes the closing contacts to open. when the call for heat is satisfied the warp switch should go the the NC position and start the motor closing operation. If the warp switch does not completely close, the valve will stay open until the switch closes or you manually start the motor. Hopefully the replacement motor will operate properly.

hot_rod

Or the small heater that “warps” the switch. The diagram I linked above shows what goes on inside the valve with the heater and switch.

hot_rod

You might wire the valve directly to a 24v power source, the transformer. To be sure it is not the t-stat or wiring snafu

Tylercoleman5917

Just realized I never gave an update. It was just a bad 1361 head i'd installed. I put the new one on and wired it up the same and its working great. Thanks guys.