Looking for tips on newly installed New Yorker.

CTD01

Hello, just got my New Yorker apu110 installed. I installed a boiler bypass and have the hydrostat 3250 plus. I have a 1300 SQ ft ranch with 100 feet or so of cast iron baseboard. Ran the boiler some and seems to take a bit to heat up compared to the old wtgo-4 I had. I know it's a low mass boiler next to the old one. Plus I'd imagine starting off already warmed up makes a big difference in the time it takes to warm everything up. I have the bypass and return set to about half throttle. I have gauges on my supply and return. Temps set to off for low limit, 170 for high limit and econ is on 1 zone heating. First 2 cycles run up to 145 and my reti temp is just over 120. By the time the boiler finishes heating the house it runs up to the 170 mark. Return is about 150 at that point. Any tips or advice would be great!

HVACNUT

Why the bypass?
Why a dry base steel boiler, cost?
Relocate the oil filter because I'm not crawling back there.
What were the combustion numbers?

CTD01

It was recommended on here and the book to have the bypass. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it. Boiler was recommended by another HVAC guy because of simplicity. The filter doesn't require any crawling. I can be easily reached next to expansion tank on the right side. 

BDR529

Everything HVACRNUT says + Shut the bypass and run it to 180. The magic number to get things to work. Nice collection of cad-cell eyes!

Cast iron to Steel option is also interesting. Did somene get a Pro-Press for Christmas?

CTD01

Na the propress is a buddys. I will shut the bypass and run it. I did do that but the return temps were pretty cold for quite some time. I was worried about condensing. The boiler is not my main source of heat so it only gets turned on when its real cold. Thats one of the other reasons the hvac guy I know recommended the steel vs cast iron. He said steel can handle shock better then cast iron. So I should shut off the economy mode as well?

EBEBRATT-Ed

@CTD01

Nice looking job!!

From a cold start if the return gets over 135 within 20 min you can leave the bypass shut. A short condensation time will evaporate. You just want to avoid prolonged condensation.

If the return stays cold longer give it some bypass. But if you really need a bypass a mixing valve with it's sensor in the boiler return water is the best fix

Long Beach Ed

Very nice work! Good to see.

HVACNUT

@CTD01, you could turn the low side off and play with the economy setting. Maybe 2 or 3 will be fine. You've got a steel boiler firing (hopefully) ULSD so don't be concerned with the flue gasses condensing. What type of emitters do you have?

CTD01

HVACNUT said:

@CTD01, you could turn the low side off and play with the economy setting. Maybe 2 or 3 will be fine. You've got a steel boiler firing (hopefully) ULSD so don't be concerned with the flue gasses condensing. What type of emitters do you have?

I have 100 feet of cast iron baseboard and yes I'm running standard #2 and my low is set to off. According to what I read if I change the eco setting to a higher number it will run cooler. I have it on #1 right now.

HVACNUT

CTD01 said:

HVACNUT said:

@CTD01, you could turn the low side off and play with the economy setting. Maybe 2 or 3 will be fine. You've got a steel boiler firing (hopefully) ULSD so don't be concerned with the flue gasses condensing. What type of emitters do you have?

I have 100 feet of cast iron baseboard and yes I'm running standard #2 and my low is set to off. According to what I read if I change the eco setting to a higher number it will run cooler. I have it on #1 right now.

Yes, but you might find with the control using thermal targeting, a higher setting might save you a few bucks and still satisfy the zone in a reasonable time. You can also play around with the High limit. Maybe 165° is good for a design day in your area. 

EBEBRATT-Ed

I would set the high limit up to 190. If it never gets there so what? If it needs to get there let it.

CTD01

Ok so boiler ran for 20 min from dead cold 65 degrees. After 20 min with bypass closed and the supply and return open I'm at 90 on the return 115 boiler temp. 110 on my feed temp. Since this will be used so infrequently does it make more sense to set a low limit on this to say 120 so it doesn't have to start from dead cold? I ran it last night. At 10 pm it was 172 boiler temp and at 6 am it was still at 125. So what would the boiler run 1 or 2 times a day? Just a thought. 

Robert_25

For some reason the pictures are not showing up for me?

My concern with having the boiler maintain a low limit setting (of 120 for example) is that if your heat calls are very infrequent, the boiler will consume fuel just to maintain 120 degrees. Plus when you finally do get a heat call, the circulator will turn off and on to keep the boiler >120 degrees as the cold water returns from the radiation.

I think it would be better to adjust the bypass to allow the boiler to come up to operating temperature as Ed described above.

CTD01

So boiler satisfied at 1030 last night. Came down this morning to 111 degree boiler water. Cycled it on by pushing tstat up 1 degree. Under 20 min I had 120 degree return temp and boiler climbed to it's 145 target. Bypass is just cracked at this point.Only reason I was thinking the low limit was so boiler doesn't have to work so hard to start from dead cold. I would only do this during cold months. Jan Feb. Just seems like from dead cold it's working way harder to come to temp. 

MaxMercy

CTD01 said:

Under 20 min I had 120 degree return temp and boiler climbed to it's 145 target.

That seems a long time to raise the water temp. I'm running a bit larger nozzle than you (0.85) and my boiler will go from cold start to 180F in about 10 minutes and from 125F to 185F in ten minutes or less with heat calling.

Have you measured the stack temp?

CTD01

Sorry been busy. Stack temp is just over 400.

STEVEusaPA

Set low limit to off, turn on the circulator hold off. If you're either getting rapid cycling of the circulator, or spending a lot of time condensing, I'd start playing with the bypass. Ideally, a 3 way mixer would've been the best option.

Mad Dog_2

Real Purdy job.  Mad Dog 

clammy

Just one notes aside from nice job . Instead of fooling around w a manual by bass why not cut to the chase and take any guess work out of the equation ,install a danfoss thermic valve w a 140 element no adjustment just guaranteed return water protection every time In my view cheap insurance to prevent any flue condensation and return water temp . It’s far better then trying to clean a boiler which has been subject to low water return temps . On oil I usually always install a tiger loop less in any chance of pulling a vacuum ,self priming , provides de airation of fuel and seems to always give me better flame but this is just me and it’s a habit I picked up doing oil service and installs and from installing buderus oil fired boiler . Has any water testing been done hardnesss tds ? I usually install callife de mineralization filter on the water feed in my area water is terrible and issues w boiler knocking is some thing that comes up . They good for make up and for system filling I use axiom purpro filters no sense in filling a system I crappy water usually do a system flush ,cleaner re flush and fill w demineralized water usually a over looked aspect in the heating industry and not talk about to much until you have issue some then usually a real hassle . I usually try to install a adey magnetic separator espically when using any ecm style pump it’s go insurance and a easy place to add boiler aditatives leaked sential x100 inhibitor good stuff good insurance Again nice looking job and best of luck w your new boiler .
Peace and good luck clammy