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Replacing a 40-year old Taco 007-F3
dbsoccer
Member Posts: 42
As is always the case, the heating system seems to act up at the peak of the cold season. Mine is just being noisy - pipes seems to be rattling just after the system fires and then gets quieter after things warm up. When I am close to the boiler when its running it sounds fine.
I have a Burnham XG2000-PV boiler with a Taco circ pump. The pump has never been replaced (installed roughly March,1986). The blower was replaced once but many years ago. I am considering, when it warms up a bit, to replace both as both preventive maintenance and to fix the noise.
While purging the system is not a worry I'd like to avoid doing it if I can. The pump has valves top and bottom so I can isolate the pump. I have a 007-F4 and gaskets at the ready. Bought many years ago so to have a spare on hand.
The biggest issue replacing the blower is I'm not as flexible as I was in 1986 and because of how the boiler is positioned in the room getting access to it will be somewhat of a challenge, but not impossible.
I'm comfortable replacing both parts but certainly want this to fix my noise. Any thoughts around what else could be causing the start up noise would be appreciated.
Also, because I can isolate the pump, my water loss should be minimal. Do I need to worry about the air introduced by the pump replacement and let the system work it out? Or is there a clever way to fill the pump with some water so that the small amount of remaining air is moot? Any thoughts or tricks would be appreciated. Again, I can always purge the boiler if need be but I don't lay awake at night dreaming of an opportunity to do this.
I have a Burnham XG2000-PV boiler with a Taco circ pump. The pump has never been replaced (installed roughly March,1986). The blower was replaced once but many years ago. I am considering, when it warms up a bit, to replace both as both preventive maintenance and to fix the noise.
While purging the system is not a worry I'd like to avoid doing it if I can. The pump has valves top and bottom so I can isolate the pump. I have a 007-F4 and gaskets at the ready. Bought many years ago so to have a spare on hand.
The biggest issue replacing the blower is I'm not as flexible as I was in 1986 and because of how the boiler is positioned in the room getting access to it will be somewhat of a challenge, but not impossible.
I'm comfortable replacing both parts but certainly want this to fix my noise. Any thoughts around what else could be causing the start up noise would be appreciated.
Also, because I can isolate the pump, my water loss should be minimal. Do I need to worry about the air introduced by the pump replacement and let the system work it out? Or is there a clever way to fill the pump with some water so that the small amount of remaining air is moot? Any thoughts or tricks would be appreciated. Again, I can always purge the boiler if need be but I don't lay awake at night dreaming of an opportunity to do this.
0
Comments
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You could tighten the bottom flange and leave the top flange a little loose and crack one of the isolation valves open a little until water comes out the top flange, then close the valve and tighten the top flange. If you have good air elimination the air from not bleeding it should work its way out over a couple days anyhow.2
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You have a couple options, first check your system pressure, assuming the PRV is in manual position, so water doesn’t continue to flow in the event of a catastrophic system breech spewing water into basement the system pressure might have dropped causing air-ration noise and drop in system efficiency.
also if you are replacing pump, and gaskets have been sitting around a few years, the EPDM square cross section Oring may be compromised; there is shelf life…
finally, you can leave the pump volute in line, and back out 4 cap screws to replace motor and cartridge assembly. Frankly, you can replace cartridge only and save motor for future need.
if you’re interested in troubleshooting pump prior to replacing anything, when you remove 4 cap screws and you can see impeller, put 120 bolts to pump, and see if the impeller spins, without noise, is yes, there is nothing wrong with pump and reinstall. Purge system and you should be fine.
hipefully this long winded note helps.
if you still have questions, concerns, contact Taco tech support at 401-942-8000Joe Mattiello
N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
Taco Comfort Solutions1 -
I fixed my noise problem. I had two suspect areas - the circ pump and the power vent blower. As it turns out, replacing the blower quieted things down. I haven't posted on this thread for awhile as I've been waiting for the weather to warm so I could turn the boiler off. I also took the down time to clean the burners and vacuum out the fire box and just some general PM. I will be looking at my flame color the next time the boiler fires. I've had issues in the past with a yellow flame but that was corrected with fixing a air supply issue (I know the name of a contractor and heating company to NOT use.) If I do have an issue with the flame I'll start another post and I'll have access to a combustion analyzer.
But if I ever do feel the need to replace my pump, because of the help on this thread, I'll have a plan. Thanks!
1
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