Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Boiler PSI after repair

Options
MooseOnaHill
MooseOnaHill Member Posts: 20
Hello Folks, 
Here’s my Question:

Late last night, my boiler went out. I called a mechanic, and he came the following morning. After troubleshooting, he concluded that my millivolt valve became faulty, causing the heating issues, so he replaced it, and the heat came on. About 10 minutes after he had left, the boiler went out again, and he couldn’t return until later this evening. After more troubleshooting, he jumped the pressure control, and the boiler kicked on immediately - So he replaced that and the pigtail. After 20 min, I noticed all my steam Air valves were still going off, which was very unusual in my 2-story home.  I went into the boiler room and saw the pressure was at 4.5 PSI despite the new pressure control set for 1.5 psi. 
My question(s) is,
1) Because I went without heat for almost two nights, did my system need to exceed the 1.5 psi to re-pressurize? Or make temp? 
2) Shouldn’t the boiler have shut down once it went over the 1.5 psi set point? 

It’s been ok since, but I’m double-checking the repairs and normalcy of the general operations.

p.s - I have a dual boiler for both steam and hot water radiators

Thank you 

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,672
    edited December 2022
    Options
    Did they make sure the pigtail to the pressuretrol was clear? what is the differential on the pressuretrol set to? If it is the gray honeywell one the differential is a thumbwheel inside. turn off the power if the control is switching 120v before taking the cover off(but it probably is just in the millivolt safety chain).

    Should probably clock the meter to make sure they set up the new valve correctly and it isn't overfired.
  • MooseOnaHill
    MooseOnaHill Member Posts: 20
    Options
    They replaced the pigtail as well. I rinsed it myself and it ran clear. Hardly any debree. 

    It’s a Resideo control - I took the cover off and the concept is the same. The white wheel displays the number one, I’m assuming this is the set point for the differential since the other numbers aren’t visible unless I turn the dial. 

    thank you 
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,672
    edited December 2022
    Options
    yes, it is set for a differential of 1. honeywell rebranded some of their stuff resideo.

    i'd say call them back, either they didn't wire it right or the control is bad.

    or the gas valve is sticking which is a much more dangerous situation.
  • MooseOnaHill
    MooseOnaHill Member Posts: 20
    Options
    Damn, thank you. 

    After that initial start up when it hit 4.5 PSI, it hasn’t come close to that. It’s been fine since and maintaining temperature; but I’ll do as you say. I was curious if too much air got in the system and it had to work harder to force it out while balancing itself-  I’m just thinking too much at this point . 

    So, basically the boiler should have went off long before it hit 4.5 psi? 
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,672
    Options
    Yeah, it just works on pressure. If it was set to 1.5 it should have shut off the burner at 2.5 psig and turned it back on at 1.5 psig. Are you sure the gauge is accurate?
  • MooseOnaHill
    MooseOnaHill Member Posts: 20
    Options
    I was just going to say - I should’ve asked him to also change the gauge. In my 9 years here, I’ve never witnessed that gauge go past 0.5 psi. It could be a faulty gauge indeed. 

    The air valves going off in unison for an extended period is what triggered this concern. Like I said, it’s been fine since but I’m going to call him tomorrow to reassure all is well. 

    Thanks for your help. 
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,672
    Options
    It is also possible the new valve isn't set up right and it is now over fired so it is producing more steam than it was before. What is more likely is it was running a much longer cycle than normal to recover from the house being cold from the failure so if the house is already warm the thermostat ends the call before pressure builds enough for the pressuretrol to cut out.
    MooseOnaHillneilc
  • MooseOnaHill
    MooseOnaHill Member Posts: 20
    Options
    This was precisely my first thought. It’s been below freezing here and the last two nights were no exceptions. So, that first start-up if you will, could prove that theory to be correct. 

    I’m not going to dismiss the valve isn’t set up right. It very well could be the case. He’ll need to return to just make sure and I’ll suggest changing the gauge. I’ve dealt with him before and he’s been reliable but stranger things have happened. 

    It’s been 7 hours since he left and after that 1st start up, it’s maintained 1.5 psi and temp maintained as well. The air valves also have returned to normal air release during a call for heat 
  • MooseOnaHill
    MooseOnaHill Member Posts: 20
    Options
    Hey Bud, just wanted to circle back. 

    The plumber returned and assured everything was hooked up and responding accordingly. As far as the issue we discussed, it’s more in line of what you said. It was in the single digits here and no heat for 2 days. 

     I’ll be watching this closely but again, it’s been good. 

    Thanks for letting me know Honeywell rebranded their stuff, I wasn’t aware.