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Help bleeding lines

Hello, 
So I have watched a bunch of videos trying to find a system that looks like mine with no luck. My water inlet valve is above the return shutoff and the bleeder valve is about 20 feet away from the boiler where I'm guessing I should attach the hose. I'll attach some photos below of the boiler and bleeder valve any help would be appreciated! 


Comments

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 4,989
    edited November 2022
    Tough to see the entire system in my minds eye with only two photos. But I will give it a stab. Be Right Back

    some quick questions while I draw an illustration

    1. You have 2 zones Yes, No, or More that two?
    2. The fill location is attached to to the return above the circulator of one of the zones.
    3. Are you having trouble with heat on only one zone?
    4. Are you having trouble with heat on all zones?
    5. Does this heater do your hot water also?
    6. Do you have separate water heater
    Edward Young Retired HVAC Contractor & HYDRONICIAN Services first oil burner at age 16 P/T trainer for EH-CC.org
  • Rider901x
    Rider901x Member Posts: 7
    Sorry here is a couple of more photos of the system from different angles and to awnser your questions 

    1. yes we have two zones upstairs and downstairs 
    2.yes it's attached above the zone one circulator but also branches off to the bottom of the boiler as well (see new attached photos) 
    3.we are just having trouble in zone 2 the upstairs 
    4/5. It also does our hot water and that is also working fine 
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 7,202
    Th branch down to the right rear of the boiler is the cold water supply for the tankless coil that makes your domestic hot water.

    Which zone is the one that does not heat? I don't see anything that would indicate zone numbers in the picture.
  • Rider901x
    Rider901x Member Posts: 7
    Zone 2 is the one without heat I'm guessing it looks like this when I have both zones calling for heat the pipe I labeled as one is hot and the zone 2 is slightly warm at best 
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 4,989
    Based on the first two pics, this is what you may have


    Based on the subsequent pics I'm not too far off.
    Edward Young Retired HVAC Contractor & HYDRONICIAN Services first oil burner at age 16 P/T trainer for EH-CC.org
    Rider901x
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 4,989
    Did I get this correct?
    Which circulator pump is the second floor pump? Left or Right
    Is the pump motor hot on the second floor zone?
    What is the water pressure in the system at the gauge on the boiler?
    Edward Young Retired HVAC Contractor & HYDRONICIAN Services first oil burner at age 16 P/T trainer for EH-CC.org
    Rider901x
  • Rider901x
    Rider901x Member Posts: 7
    thank you for your help and yes you are very close I tried taking a couple more photos and labeling all the pipes. H is for the hot supply and 1 is for zone one and 2 is for zone two. The zone 2 pipe is the left one and it is cool to the touch but the pump is warm/hot to the touch. In the picture, you labeled upstairs and downstairs supply are the returns that go to the two water pumps.


  • Rider901x
    Rider901x Member Posts: 7
    PSI is reading a hair over 15
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 4,870
    The drain valve in the bottom photo of your first post is a purge station. To the right of the drain is a quarter turn valve. Turn with a slotted screwdriver. 
    mattmia2
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 4,989
    edited November 2022
    It appears that the single purge valve was added to facilitate purging air from the second floor zone. Here is the photo of your system. Pay attention to the white arrows. Once you have a garden hose connected to that purge drain valve (in your first post) open the valve to allow any air in the return pipe from the feed valve to the purge valve to get forced out.

    then close the ball valve with a screw driver and force the water around the long way.

    Open the fast fill feature of the feed valve to increase the boiler pressure. You will need the high velocity of say 20 to 25 PSI for entrain the air on the second floor. This velocity may be needed more than once. you get the pressure to build up by closing the drain valve until the pressure is up to 25 PSI, then open the valve full as quickly as you can. Hopefully the force of that extra pressure will force the air down the pipe from the second floor to the basement and out that drain opening.

    After a few tries, you will see less and less air each time. When you feel that you have most of the air removed, place the fast fill back to the automatic position. Close the drain valve and remove the hose, then open the ball valve with a screwdriver. Test the second floor zone to see if you removed the air
    Edward Young Retired HVAC Contractor & HYDRONICIAN Services first oil burner at age 16 P/T trainer for EH-CC.org
  • Rider901x
    Rider901x Member Posts: 7
    Awesome! Thank you for all the help! 
  • Rider901x
    Rider901x Member Posts: 7
    It appears that the single purge valve was added to facilitate purging air from the second floor zone. Here is the photo of your system. Pay attention to the white arrows. Once you have a garden hose connected to that purge drain valve (in your first post) open the valve to allow any air in the return pipe from the feed valve to the purge valve to get forced out. then close the ball valve with a screw driver and force the water around the long way. Open the fast fill feature of the feed valve to increase the boiler pressure. You will need the high velocity of say 20 to 25 PSI for entrain the air on the second floor. This velocity may be needed more than once. you get the pressure to build up by closing the drain valve until the pressure is up to 25 PSI, then open the valve full as quickly as you can. Hopefully the force of that extra pressure will force the air down the pipe from the second floor to the basement and out that drain opening. After a few tries, you will see less and less air each time. When you feel that you have most of the air removed, place the fast fill back to the automatic position. Close the drain valve and remove the hose, then open the ball valve with a screwdriver. Test the second floor zone to see if you removed the air
    Thanks again! One last question should I close the ball valve on the zone one return line while I'm doing this?