Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

B&G circulating pump leaking

leezilla Member Posts: 3
edited October 2022 in THE MAIN WALL
Hello all,

I am hoping you can help me identify the right path to fixing my leaking B&G pump. I'm a bit out of my domain here, but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty on this thing.

It seems to be leaking while running, so I assume there is a bushing or gasket in the snout that has failed. Seeing other posts around here leads me to believe I may be able to buy a bearing and impeller replacement kit from B&G. I'm not sure how to identify my part to even start looking for a repair kit or replacement parts. Any help with identification or path towards a fix would be greatly appreciated.

This is an old installation on a boiler in my home. I have a couple of photos linked here:

Motor Tag:

Wide shot:

Flange Closeup:

Bearing / Impeller Housing Closeup:

Bearing / Impeller Housing:


  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,036
    edited October 2022
    Drain system
    Put on isolation flanges
    Install a new modern circulator, like a 007e which sips electricity instead your existing one, which guzzles it.

    P.S. Why not put the pictures in your thread? The links could break.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • leezilla
    leezilla Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the note on the images @STEVEusaPA. A lot of forums I've used in the past don't handle direct image uploads well. It looks like Healting Help has a fantastic system in place. I updated to put the images inline.

    It sounds like an 007e would be essentially a drop in replacement for my unit, flow wise. When you mention the isolation flanges, does this mean I would remove the 3-bolt flange from the inlet and outlet side of my plumbing and replace with appropriate 2-bolt flanges (this is what I thing isolation flange references)?
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 653
    That certainly looks like a Bell & Gossett 1/4 horsepower motor, probably manufactured abound 1970 I guess.

    The bearing assembly does not look like any of the B&G models I can recall seeing in the field.

    The veloute looks like it may be a B&G 2" NFI with those round flanges. If the pipe is 2" steel (outside would measure about 2.5" This might be your pump, but I am far from certain as the horsepower is not the same, and the rest of the pump is similar but certainly not identical. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-102214-1-6-HP-2-NFI-Circulator-Pump-5603000-p?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_MPLTV&gclid=Cj0KCQjw48OaBhDWARIsAMd966AjJcWPAmFVFuqT-b_2VTSQSjhESJtvV_rDQQQwIH_HZr9JRpzNnuEaAt7LEALw_wcB

    I tend to agree with @STEVEusaPA it might be time to modernize the circulator. In your case I assume the area that is stamped "1106" is where the leak is, this is the bearing assembly. The bearing assembly holds the bearings/seals, coupler, shafts,, etc. and has the impellor fastened to the end of the shafts. This unit might fit your pump if I guessed correctly on the model. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-189165LF-Bearing-Assembly-Lead-Free-HV-2-Obs-1-1-2

    There are people on the The Wall that are more familiar with the Bell & Gossett line of pumps than I am. One guy in particular used to work as a manufacturer's rep. and is a wealth of knowledge. He may chime in here and have more input.

    Update: I just looked closer at your photos. The B&G pump I referred to has a four bolt 2" pump/pipe flange. The unit in your photo appears to be a two or thee bolt flange (very unusual for modern, post 1950's circulator pumps). Am I correct in assuming that the large black thing in the background of your photos is an ancient 'snowman' boiler covered with insulation?
  • leezilla
    leezilla Member Posts: 3
    @ScottSecor thank you for the wealth of information. I'm coming in with very little background in plumbing, so the terminology itself has been a barrier. Just being able to grab ahold of the language you use already put me ahead.

    This is a 3-bolt flange on there. I am not sure of the year of the pump, but I expect it's pretty old. That is the boiler you see in the background. I'm not sure if it's a "snowman" style, but the googling I did agrees with you on that term. It's an old steam boiler that was built in 1925 (according to the stampings and hand-written notes the installer left). I know in the late 1970's or early 1980's it was convert to run on natural gas and had some of the controls upgraded (well, frankensteined).

    I like the idea of converting to a newer recirc pump, however I am concerned about the downtime on that. If I had any experience here I might not be so worried. Do you typically have the ability to fit a modern pump into the space of the existing plumbing on something like I'm dealing with?
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 653
    I'll go real easy here. The pump was likely sized properly (or perhaps oversized) by the original installer about a half a century ago. My guess is that when the boiler was installed a century ago there was no pump and the hot boiler water simply circulated with gravity (warm water wants to rise) to the radiators.

    Sizing a pump, especially a replacement pump is not always as easy as, "throw a (run of the mill) Taco 007 in there." However, if my assumption is correct and your heat distribution pipes are enormous and the system was not 'modified' too much over the last century you may get away with a 007. Unfortunately, you will be forced to replace those odd three bolt pipe flanges. I suspect the flanges may have been Thrush brand. It is also likely that none of the readily available pumps will have the same span between the flanges.

    Assuming funds are tight and you have no plans on replacing the century old boiler with modern equipment, I suggest the following:
    1. Hire a professional that can perform a circulator pump sizing calculation based on a site visit and have them replace the pump with new flanges with built in valves. This will be very expensive and you will likely find most of the true professional cannot take on any more work at this time.
    2. If money is real tight take and you are very handy, you could certainly take on the job yourself. More than likely, you will need to remove the old pump and the two three bolt flanges after disconnecting the line voltage wiring. Then modify the steel piping and install the correct size of these isolation valves. Adjust the piping so the new circulator will slide right in between the new flanges. Install the pump, and wire same. Refill the system with fresh water and purge the air from your new setup. As far as which pump and not seeing the job, I would say your probably safe with the model I mentioned above. These are the pump isolation valves I'm referring to. https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=pump isolators
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 13,331
    a new pump is probably less expensive than replacing the old one with a three piece pump but a little more work
  • MikeAmann
    MikeAmann Member Posts: 714
    Figure out what size pipe you have. Replace circ with the TACO 007E.
    These would be ideal for flanges.