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Straight or Angled 2nd Brass Pigtail for Boiler Trim?

We think we should add a 2nd pigtail for the 2nd pressuretroll on our WMC EG75 single-pipe steam boiler & want to do it when we get some help with our upcoming tune-up in a few weeks since we haven't adjusted the trim ourselves before. For this setup per the photo below, should we buy/add a 2nd brass pigtail with the straight or angled type? Both are available at SH. And would it go just under the 2nd pigtail vs the 0-3 psi or 1-3 psi gauges?


    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,764
    you already have a pigtail protecting both p trolls and the gauge. that's all you need. i would put a brass union between the pigtail and the tee so its easy to take apart and clean. and if any of those nipples are black pipe replace them with brass
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,113
    Personally i like to add a tee to the skim tapping and mount everything up above the water line where it doesn' t get much garbage .In your case a 1 1/2 x 3/4 tee and install across tee above it use 3/4 x3/4x 1/4 tees w pigtails for the gauges and pressuretrolls .They never get clogged due to being well above the water line and if the boiler is piped correctly and cleaned it will be years before they ever become clogged , With the cross tee and a plug in the end of the gauge tee its very easy to clean and flush out . You would install either a plug or valve in the open skim tapping. Peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,157
    That is a lot of stuff to remove when you want to remove that pigtail for cleaning!

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,764
    which is why i suggested a union
  • cubicacres
    cubicacres Member Posts: 360
    Thanks, we noticed we a had a lot going on above the pigtail on when we tried taking it apart last week but the steel nipples were stuck & rotating everything was a pain, then we decided to wait for the tune-up next week to ask the tech to give it a try. Last time they cleaned it out ok, but put everything on the T back sideways, so it's time to learn to do it ourselves :)

    Are brass nipples recommended because they're easier to take apart over time, or brass vs steel for another reason?

    And if the current pigtail port is higher than the skim port on our boiler as shown, can we just add a brass nipple of 2-3 inches or so & add a brass union to make it higher vs. doing the something similar using the skim port? Or do we need the larger port 1 1/2in to reduce to the smaller pigtail, 2 p-trolls, 2 gauges for some reason?
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,094
    edited September 2022

    Maybe I am late to the party, I just finished this yesterday.

    This previously had 2 pigtails with crosses and tees.

    Was a PITA to clean so it got ignored quite a bit.

    Now with this control tree, you can unscrew the vac bkr coupling to brush straight down into the boiler.

    Then remove the lowest cap on the nipple from that cross to drain.

    Then remove the remaining plugs and you can brush in all directions.

    If the black horizonal manifold is clean then it is nearly certain that all the 1/4" risers are clean.

    All the 1/4" piping is SS or brass and will stay clean where it is located.

    You prime the tree trap thru the top plug on the top cross.

    This avoids unwiring 3 controls each year.

    The 1/2" union on the boiler control riser lets you remove the entire tree for flushing if ever needed.

    The far left is a mercury vapor stat, the small gauge with it is 0-32 ounces
    This boiler runs about 8 ounces or so.

    The large 0-30 PSI gauge has never moved but only will show some vacuum.

    I have built this set up on all steamers that needed some work on controls.

    Makes PM much easier.

    PS: where this is tapped into the top of the boiler it will see only steam as it is well above the water line.
    This fact keeps sludge out of the control tree.

    In your case your pigtail is probably screwed into a 1/2" or 3/4" reducing bushing.
    Ideally you could remove that bushing and install a nipple with a tee branch pointing up.
    Then a plug in the back side of the tee for clean out. Then build the tree up above the branch.
    Remember you have to go up and then back down to establish the water seal.

    The bushing may be a hassle to remove at this point.
    The recommendation to put a tee before the skim valve may be the best choice.